Dark and imposing, the 2016 Carmignano Riserva Trefiano smolders up from the glass, with rich plums giving way to crushed violets, stone dust, hints of tobacco and saddle leather. An opulent wave of velvety textures floods the entire palate with ripe red and black fruits, leaving a saturation of minerals and grippy tannins in its wake. This is potent, long and structured; yet the balance is on point, as notes of hard red candies and hints of licorice fade. The 2016 Trefiano is quite a wine. This is a blend of 80% Sangiovese, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Caniolo that spends eighteen months refining in medium-toast tonneaux, half new and half second pass.

The 2016 Vin Santo di Carmignano Riserva is an understated beauty, opening slowly. It entices with a whiff of saw dust and crushed toasted almond, giving way to dried apricot, nectarine and finally a dusting of cocoa. The Riserva flows across the palate more like nectar than wine, with a mix of sweet autumnal spice and peach preserves, all held together perfectly by brisk acidity. The 2016 is amazingly long, balanced and complex, leaving a staining of ground ginger and burnt sugar. Through it all, the mouth is left watering as nearly a minute goes by and hints of brown butter and sweet cinnamon carry on. Simply stated, this is among the absolute best Vin Santos I have ever had the pleasure of tasting.

The 2017 Carmignano Villa di Capezzana takes its time opening in the glass, at first dusty with dried cherries and only a hint of dusty rose. Yet this is worth the wait, as its berry fruit transforms into crushed plums and raspberries, complemented by sweet herbs, hints of animal musk and flowery undergrowth. It washes dark elegant waves of mineral-tinged blackberries across the palate, offset by a twang of sour citrus, as hints of cocoa and tobacco build toward the close. This is structured and noble in feel, yet with enough primary concentration to nearly mask its grippy tannins, as touches of mint and dark chocolate linger through the medium-length finale. The balance that Capezzana has culled from this torridly hot and dry vintage is remarkable. That said, the 2017 is already drinking beautifully today after a good decant. This is a blend of 80% Sangiovese to 20% Cabernet Sauvignon.

The 2012 Carmignano Villa di Capezzana is soft, radiant and open-knit, all of which give considerable appeal today. There is good brightness and intensity to the fruit, along with lovely aromatic top notes of cedar, smoke, licorice and tobacco. Given its mid-weight structure, the 2012 is likely to offer its best drinking sooner rather than later. There is no reason to delay gratification in this impeccable, beautifully crafted Carmignano from Capezzana.

Vin Ruspo, from the Carmignano production zone near Prato in Tuscany, is one of Italy’s most complex styles of rosato. A blend of Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon, Canaiolo and Cabernet Franc; deep orange appearance; aromas of orange zest, pear, pectin and orange roses. Medium-full with a rich, complex finish that is dry and elegantly styled, this has appealing flavors of orange and strawberry. Enjoy over the next 2-3 years.

A deep set of red plums and berries with some fine tobacco leaf and savory herbs, mineral and porcini. Juicy and intense on the palate with lots of chalky, nicely chewy tannins and a juicy finish. From organically grown grapes. Drinkable now, but better after 2023.

The 2020 Ghiaie della Furba opens with a mentholated freshness, blending minty herbs, spiced orange peels and red currants. It envelops the palate in textures of pure silk, quickly gaining grip with a core of tart red berries and sour citrus as edgy tannins pinch at the cheeks. This finishes with admirable length, structure and concentration, leaving a pleasantly bitter tinge to linger as hints of cedar and a savory herbal thrust slowly fade. The 2020 needs time, and a lot of it.

The 2015 Carmignano Riserva Trefiano is a dense, powerful wine. It offers tons of richness in a more overt style than the straight Carmignano. Black cherry, spice, leather, licorice and mocha give the Riserva its plush contours and exuberant feel. I prefer the straight bottling for its greater purity of fruit, but the Trefiano is undoubtedly nicely crafted.