What a beauty. The Tenuta di Capezzana 2012 Vin Santo di Carmignano Riserva (packaged in a 375-milliliter bottle) inches forth from the tiny bottle slowly and ultimately reveals a spectacular color that is orange, copper and almost green at the same time. I tasted bottle number 962 of a precious 4,968 produced. This Vin Santo puts on a real show thanks to its rich viscosity that slides, shifts and glistens in the glass. There are many aromas to describe, and it is hard to do this wine justice given how quickly they shift and change. There is honey, brown sugar, dried herb, forest mushroom, caramel and tilled earth. I even got a hint of rubber boot. This is a work of art and a clear passion project. Assigning a numerical score to an aspirational wine like this somehow misses the point, but here goes nothing.

A concentrated mouthful of caramel, almond, chocolate, molasses and orange peel mark this dessert white, which packs a punch along with its sweetness. Bracing acidity and a walnut skin bitterness offset the viscosity and sugar deftly, allowing this to play out gracefully on the finish. Trebbiano and San Colombano. Drink now through 2040. From Italy.

Orange zest, dried cranberries, notes of ash and tar, as well as rosemary all spring from the glass on the nose. There’s impressive polish to the strands of lightly indented tannins which are melded together with bright acidity. Medium-bodied and medium-chewy on the finish. Drink now.

The 2015 Carmignano Villa di Capezzana is bright, lifted and full of personality. Sweet red berry fruit, blood orange, mint, sage and dried flowers all grace this juicy, mid-weight wine. The 2015 is impeccably balanced and a joy to taste.

A wine with chewy tannins and intensity. Full and flavorful. Ripe tannins. All here. Excited to watch this evolve. A blend of sangiovese and cabernet sauvignon.

Made with organic fruit, the 2016 Carmignano Villa di Capezzana is an 80/20 blend of Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon. The wine is open and accessible, showing a graceful and pure quality of fruit with dark cherry, blackberry, spice, tar and tobacco. The mouthfeel is streamlined and compact, but what this wine lacks in power it makes up for in elegance. This sample from 2016 was sent along with a bottle from 2010 so that I could track its impressive bottle evolution. In fact, I widened my suggested drinking window after tasting that older bottle.

Dark and brooding, this powerful red is mellowing, with aromas of fading black cherry and plum, forest floor and leather. Its tannins are still pretty active, but there are ample ripe fruit and mineral notes. Think bistecca or wild boar stew. Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon. Drink now through 2032. 250 cases made, 40 cases imported.