Provencal herbs and fresh plums on the nose. The palate is medium- to full-bodied, chewy and delineated, showing plums and a touch of orange zest. This needs some time to soften. Try from 2027.

The 2023 Trebbiano Capezzana is youthfully coy, mixing hints of ginger with wildflowers and lime. It's round and supple with a whiplash of zesty acidity and a saline flourish offsetting nearly oily textures and depths of ripe nectarine. It finishes tense and incredibly long, tapering off with a cheek-puckering lemony concentration. The 2023 is painfully young today but full of potential.

Barco Reale di Carmignano fits the Italian “rosso” category, as in Rosso di Montalcino, a fruit-forward rendition of a structured age-worthy wine. Capezzana, a leading producer in Carmignano, has fashioned a fragrant and refined one, filled with red cherries counterbalanced by earthy savory notes. Fine structure imparted by Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend is apparent and prevents overwhelming fruitiness.

Complex and viscous, this dessert white exudes caramel, brown butter, molasses, dried fig, orange peel and bitter walnut aromas and flavors. Its intense sweetness is cut by balancing acidity, while the flavors ply the seemingly endless aftertaste. Trebbiano and San Colombano. Drink now through 2038. 255 cases made, 50 cases imported.

Wonderfully fresh from the first tilt of the glass, the 2020 Ghiaie della Furba opens with a blend of minty herbs, spiced orange peels and sour cherries. It’s silky and refined with a saturating core of red primary fruits. Hints of sour citrus and tactile mineral tones form toward the close. Edgy tannins tug at the senses as this tapers off long and staining, leaving a pleasant bitter sensation, nuances of cedary spice and a tart cranberry crunchiness. The 2020 is powerful and impossibly young at the moment. Five to six years of cellaring are highly recommended.

Spicy, intense and full of potential, the 2019 Carmignano Riserva Trefiano lifts from the glass with a burst of white smoke, peppery rose and crushed raspberries. This displays a radiant core of ripe red and black fruits, opening with a grippy sensation as fine-grained tannins saturate the palate. The 2019 finishes with dramatic length and tension, puckering the cheeks while a staining of primary concentration adds a youthful chewiness. While incredibly young, the balance here is otherworldly.

Barco Reale allows you to gain an insight into the charms and stature of Carmignano. Capezzana, arguably Carmignano's best and most well- known producer, makes a consistently engaging Barco Reale. The mid-weight 2022 delivers lots of bright cherry-like flavors accented by savory notes, all supported by mild tannins and mouth-watering acidity. Enjoy it now while (hopefully) your bottle of their Carmignano ages in your cellar.

JAMES SUCKLING TOP 100 ITALY 2025 - #13

This is an excellent Vin Santo with stunning, vibrant complexity and freshness. The nose shows lifted aromas of prunes, apricots and dates, dried figs and nuts, orange marmalade and a whiff of celery. Full-bodied and dense, oily and mellow, balanced by zesty acidity that keeps the palate polished and drives the very long and bright hazelnut finish. Drink or hold.