The 2020 Rosato Vin Ruspo shows white strawberries, stems and all, along with hints of crushed stone and undergrowth. It’s silky, textured and pliant, offering notes of ripe melon and sweet spice. Hints of peach tea and a twang of sour citrus linger long. The Vin Ruspo is a blend of 80% Sangiovese, 10% Cabernet and 10% Canaiolo.

A concentrated mouthful of caramel, almond, chocolate, molasses and orange peel mark this dessert white, which packs a punch along with its sweetness. Bracing acidity and a walnut skin bitterness offset the viscosity and sugar deftly, allowing this to play out gracefully on the finish. Trebbiano and San Colombano. Drink now through 2040. From Italy.

The 2015 Carmignano Villa di Capezzana is bright, lifted and full of personality. Sweet red berry fruit, blood orange, mint, sage and dried flowers all grace this juicy, mid-weight wine. The 2015 is impeccably balanced and a joy to taste.

The 2012 Carmignano Villa di Capezzana is soft, radiant and open-knit, all of which give considerable appeal today. There is good brightness and intensity to the fruit, along with lovely aromatic top notes of cedar, smoke, licorice and tobacco. Given its mid-weight structure, the 2012 is likely to offer its best drinking sooner rather than later. There is no reason to delay gratification in this impeccable, beautifully crafted Carmignano from Capezzana.

The 2018 Carmignano Villa di Capezzana shows woodland herbs and berries with a touch of clove. Here I’m finding silky, opulent textures ushering in a mineral-tinged wave of red and black fruits. Zesty acids motivate the experience, keeping the mouth watering through the long and purple-floral-tinged finale, where hints of mocha and exotic spices linger.

Mid to deep ruby with orange tinges. Captivating nose of red fruit that is savoury and salty, rather than sweet, and with an undertow of liquorice. It may be Cabernet Sauvignon-dominated but this wine eclipses the variety entirely. A hint of pet shop. Velvety and savoury on the palate and with the tanginess of Sangiovese. Ends on soft, but gritty, tannins. Highly unusual and fascinating. Fruit flavours play second fiddle.

The 2017 Carmignano Villa di Capezzana takes its time opening in the glass, at first dusty with dried cherries and only a hint of dusty rose. Yet this is worth the wait, as its berry fruit transforms into crushed plums and raspberries, complemented by sweet herbs, hints of animal musk and flowery undergrowth. It washes dark elegant waves of mineral-tinged blackberries across the palate, offset by a twang of sour citrus, as hints of cocoa and tobacco build toward the close. This is structured and noble in feel, yet with enough primary concentration to nearly mask its grippy tannins, as touches of mint and dark chocolate linger through the medium-length finale. The balance that Capezzana has culled from this torridly hot and dry vintage is remarkable. That said, the 2017 is already drinking beautifully today after a good decant. This is a blend of 80% Sangiovese to 20% Cabernet Sauvignon.

The late-release 2011 Carmignano Villa di Capezzana 10 Anni is dark and floral, dusty in character, with black cherry and plum offset by hints of camphor and mint. It’s the result of a warm and low-producing vintage, which shows through its depths of silky textures matched by rich dark red fruits and hints of sour citrus. Yet there’s a spike of nervous acidity here that keeps the expression wildly fresh. Tobacco and tart raspberries linger, along with adolescent tannins, making for a nicely framed and mature expression.