The 2017 Carmignano Villa di Capezzana takes its time opening in the glass, at first dusty with dried cherries and only a hint of dusty rose. Yet this is worth the wait, as its berry fruit transforms into crushed plums and raspberries, complemented by sweet herbs, hints of animal musk and flowery undergrowth. It washes dark elegant waves of mineral-tinged blackberries across the palate, offset by a twang of sour citrus, as hints of cocoa and tobacco build toward the close. This is structured and noble in feel, yet with enough primary concentration to nearly mask its grippy tannins, as touches of mint and dark chocolate linger through the medium-length finale. The balance that Capezzana has culled from this torridly hot and dry vintage is remarkable. That said, the 2017 is already drinking beautifully today after a good decant. This is a blend of 80% Sangiovese to 20% Cabernet Sauvignon.

The 2019 Soave Classico I Palchi Foscarino Grande Cuvée shows more orange oils than lemon with exotic florals and wet stone. It’s amazingly textural and deep with a candied hint to its vibrant orchard fruits. This is less minerally forward and instead richer than the rest of the portfolio, even showing a bit of almond paste that complements the ripe orchard fruits within. The finale is long and staining, leaving primary concentration and nuanced tannins. Through it all, remarkable freshness is maintained. This is Inama’s new super selection that's matured all in 2nd and 3rd-pass twelve-hectoliter casks. It has a large-scaled feel, yet it should age effortlessly.

Distinctly savory and spicy in the glass, the 2018 Brut Oudeis wafts up with notes of crushed stone, dusty sage, ground ginger and citrus zest. It's elegant and round on the palate, with saline minerals and brisk acidity enlivening the tart orchard fruits. This finishes with a balanced inner sweetness, and sour lemon hints add a lovely contrast. The 2018 Oudeis is a big step up from the 2017 tasted last year. It's a blend of 80% Pinot Noir and 20% Chardonnay.

Dark and imposing, the 2016 Carmignano Riserva Trefiano smolders up from the glass, with rich plums giving way to crushed violets, stone dust, hints of tobacco and saddle leather. An opulent wave of velvety textures floods the entire palate with ripe red and black fruits, leaving a saturation of minerals and grippy tannins in its wake. This is potent, long and structured; yet the balance is on point, as notes of hard red candies and hints of licorice fade. The 2016 Trefiano is quite a wine. This is a blend of 80% Sangiovese, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Caniolo that spends eighteen months refining in medium-toast tonneaux, half new and half second pass.

The 2009 Alta Langa Metodo Classico Pas Dosé Riserva Zero 140 (a blend of 85% Pinot Nero and 15% Chardonnay) is not quite full-bodied but almost, showing plenty of rich layering and texture. The number 140 in the sparkler's name refers to the number of months this special bottle ages on the lees. This is a real beauty with peach, orchard fruit, baked bread, toasted pine nut and hints of dusty mine

Sliced apples, lemons, wild herbs and some cream on the nose. It’s medium-bodied with an oily texture. Very fresh. Drink now.