The 2018 Sor Ugo is a superb Bolgheri red. Pliant, succulent and so expressive, the 2018 offers plenty of richness, but with terrific energy, too. Black cherry, mocha, spice, licorice and chocolate all build as the 2018 fills out over time. The purity of the flavors is striking.

At each tilt of the glass, the 2019 Podium reveals something new. Initially showing gingery spice, white smoke and yellow flower notes, it evolves into sour melon, young mango and wet stone aromas. Finally, it turns flinty, with crushed apples and raw almonds. The silky textures are almost glycerol-like, even though it is seemingly weightless in feel. It hovers above the senses while being propelled by vibrant acidity and saturating mineral tones, as ripe orchard fruits and inner florals cascade across the palate. It leaves you with an achingly youthful impression, the combination of structure and lingering notes of bitter grapefruit rind and granny smith apples. 2019 Podium is a classic in the making; and while it can be enjoyed today, the best is yet to come.

The 2019 Vermentino di Gallura Superiore Sciala is very pretty and perfumed, with yellow flowers giving way to ripe apples and sweet spice. This is silky in feel yet full of nervous energy, as a mix of saline minerals and acids creates inner tension. A mix of ginger and lime lingers long, making for a clean and precise finale.

Savory juniper, mint and floral aromas give way to cherry and strawberry flavors in this high-pitched red.  Firms up, with refined, yet pointed tannins lining the lingering finish.  Best from 2024 through 2036.

Subtle aromas of orange peel, cherries, and dried flowers follow through to a medium body, fine tannins and a refined, subtle finish. Such beauty. So drinkable and fine.

Effusive nose of floral honey and summer meadows with a hint of vanilla. Ripe and open, yet bright and crisp with some positive tannins at the tantalizing finish. And it does all this with just 11.5% alcohol! From biodynamically grown grapes with Demeter certification. Drink now.

What a beauty. The Tenuta di Capezzana 2012 Vin Santo di Carmignano Riserva (packaged in a 375-milliliter bottle) inches forth from the tiny bottle slowly and ultimately reveals a spectacular color that is orange, copper and almost green at the same time. I tasted bottle number 962 of a precious 4,968 produced. This Vin Santo puts on a real show thanks to its rich viscosity that slides, shifts and glistens in the glass. There are many aromas to describe, and it is hard to do this wine justice given how quickly they shift and change. There is honey, brown sugar, dried herb, forest mushroom, caramel and tilled earth. I even got a hint of rubber boot. This is a work of art and a clear passion project. Assigning a numerical score to an aspirational wine like this somehow misses the point, but here goes nothing.