Rocche di Castiglione is prized for its pure white, limestone rich soil which gives wines of extraordinary finesse and fragrance. It is epitomised here in Vietti's graceful and refined 2016. It's evocatively scented with wild forest berries, savoury spice and heady, almost truffle-like nuances. The buoyant, vigorous palate is mineral-driven and generous in red currant and raspberry flavours on a silky texture of fine tannins. As immediately captivating as this is, it has the bones for a solid couple of decades.

Vietti's Brunate plots sit on the La Morra side of this cru. Fermented in stainless steel then transferred directly to large oak casks for ageing, it offers engaging and penetrating aromas of cedar, red cherry, blood orange, sage blossom and rose. The palate demonstrates the austere personality of Brunate and will require a few years in bottle to unfurl. Dense and layered with profound depth, chewy tannins and persistent red berries, this is a fantastically complete wine.

Produced since 1967, Masseria brings together fruit from Pora, Faset, Paje' and Montaribaldi in the township of Barbaresco, as well as Giacone in Treiso. Like Vietti's Barolos, it spends a lengthy 30 months in large casks. Pristine, precise and pure, the 2016 rings out with pronounced mint, white pepper and rose. Still tightly wound, this is tactile and chalky but above all elegant. Long, luscious tannins are seamlessly integrated and the finish bursts with lovely red currants and pomegranate.