A lot of helichrysum and ripe, almost under-spirit cherries. Lifted acidity with velvety tannins, full body and a more austere finish due to the oak. Yet, it remains balanced. Drink or hold.

The 2021 Extra Brut Col Credas Rive di Farra di Soligo is more of a whisper than a shout, as nuances of sweet melon and wildflowers give way to cracked slate and gingery spice. This is savory and mineral in style, caressing the palate with silken bubbles, as citrus-tinged orchard fruits are complemented by a salty flourish that evolves toward the close. The Col Credas finishes potent and with remarkable length, leaving a lemon-rind-like concentration, even as the mouth is left watering for another sip.

A distinctive white, with subtle chamomile, almond skin and smoke aromas on the nose. Fresh on the palate, with a salty underpinning, this has an almost tissue-weight texture, while still carrying a fine range of steeped raspberry, dried mint, singed orange peel and spices. Intriguing. Drink now.

100% Pinot Noir, zero dosage; matured on the lees for 60 months; sboccatura tardiva means late disgorged. Bright, medium deep yellow; fine bubbles. Aromas of toast, brioche, dried lemon and yellow plum. Medium-full with a rich mid-palate, very good acidity, notable persistence and excellent harmony. Here is an Alta Langa of excellent complexity and structure. This is quite appealing now, especially paired with shellfish or veal, and will drink well for 6-8 years.

Readers will note the addition of two new wines that have been thrilling since the first day I tasted them. The first is from a choice parcel in Cerequio Vietti acquired from Michele Chiarlo. The new Monvigliero is made in conjunction with Jeremy Seysses of Domaine Dujac and has some whole cluster influence. As much as I hope stems don't become a trend in Piedmont like French oak barrels did in the 1990s, there is little question whole clusters seem to work especially well in Monvigliero. These wines are simply brilliant. There.

The 2018 Barolo Monvigliero, another new wine in this range, is dazzling. That's not much of a surprise, as the 2018 has always been gorgeous from barrel. A touch of whole clusters adds aromatic nuance and lift to this super-classic, sculpted Barolo. The Monvigliero impresses with its purity, delineation and class. Superb.

Green apple and lemon zest/oil dominate the aromatic profile, showcasing a mineral-driven character. Lean on the palate with a salty quality, this wine pairs exceptionally well with oysters or other seafood dishes. 

Coming from a cru that lies in close proximity to the Tanaro river and can ripen a bit earlier, the 2020 Barbaresco Roncaglie offers an attractive and supple bouquet of dried strawberries, herbes de Provence, dusty earth, and fennel. Medium-bodied and approachable, it has fine tannins, an elegant feel, and a clean finish. It is already showing well and will have a wide window for enjoyment over the next 10-12 years.