Dusty violets, roses, incense wild herbs and wet stone lift up to form a perfumed display as the 2018 Conero Riserva Grosso Agontano blossoms in the glass. The Agontano is silky and refined, contrasting ripe red berries and sweet spice with saline-mineral tones and brisk acidity. This leaves the palate with a coating of fine tannins, yet it remains energetic, savory and almost salty in character, with a hint of black licorice that lingers long. The 2018 Agontano will only require minimal cellaring to show well, and, although quite balanced and pretty, it should be enjoyed sooner rather than later.

The 2017 Chianti Classico Riserva is laced with cinnamon, blood orange, wild cherry, tobacco and incense, all of which give it a decidedly exotic flair. The 2017 is a rich, dense Riserva, but I would prefer to drink it on the airy side, before it starts to lose its freshness and vibrancy.

There’s incredible mineral presence here, from the nose right through to the finish. A aromatic mix of flint, tufo and wet-stone aromas, as well as heather and floral notes. Then, the palate finally introduces ripe peach and pineapple to this mineral carnival. Full-bodied, super-silky and almost syrupy texture with dense, ripe fruit and light phenolics. The long finish mixes stone-fruit and enough acidity to handle the same, huge bundle of rich, silky minerals. This is a special old-vine selection from the historic, volcanic Monte Foscarino vineyards. Quite unique in the Soave context, and showcasing one of the appellation’s top vineyard sites. Fermentation in a mix of barrel and oak cask. First vintage. Drink or hold.

A release of 8,760 bottles, the Vietti 2017 Barolo Lazzarito draws its fruit from Serralunga d'Alba and reveals a luminous garnet color. Compared to some of the others in this portfolio, the wine takes a little longer to open and express itself. It does, however, unfold to dark cherry, redcurrant, grilled herb, iron ore and candied orange peel. You need to give your glass a few extra vigorous swirls. Those rusty mineral notes build in intensity and drive the wine's medium-long finish.

The organic and biodynamic Alois Lageder 2018 Chardonnay Löwengang offers a medley of ripe fruit and apricot with soft spice and toasted cinnamon. Aged mostly in barrique and some larger wooden barrel, the oak is well balanced overall, owing more to the textural richness of the mouthfeel, as well as to the warm and toasted notes that appear on the bouquet. There is plenty of soft fruit to flesh it out. This wine is prime for a generous 10-year drinking window.

Broad and saturated with cherry, black currant and plum flavors, this red is expensive and yet well defined.  The ripe fruit is offset by nervous tannins, leaving a resonant, energetic feel on the lengthy finish.  Eucalyptus, iron and tobacco notes add detail.  Best from 2025 through 2047.

The 2019 Vermentino di Gallura Superiore Sciala is very pretty and perfumed, with yellow flowers giving way to ripe apples and sweet spice. This is silky in feel yet full of nervous energy, as a mix of saline minerals and acids creates inner tension. A mix of ginger and lime lingers long, making for a clean and precise finale.

The 2018 Sor Ugo is a superb Bolgheri red. Pliant, succulent and so expressive, the 2018 offers plenty of richness, but with terrific energy, too. Black cherry, mocha, spice, licorice and chocolate all build as the 2018 fills out over time. The purity of the flavors is striking.