The 2018 Barolo Ravera is a wine of real depth and vertical structure. As always, the Ravera is a taut, nervy Barolo built on energy more than volume. Readers will have to be patient, as the Ravera is likely to require a number of years to be at its most expressive. Even in the early going, it is vibrant and full of life. Rose petal, chalk, blood orange and white pepper lend striking exotic top notes that are quite suggestive of what the future is going to bring. What a gorgeous Barolo this is.

Best Buy. Concentrated aromas of black plum, fig, blackberry, white pepper, allspice and tea leaf roll out of the glass. Gamy on the palate with a lush and generous offering of black cherry jam that is balanced by floral and savory elements bringing the wine to its earthy finish. 

A complex, outstanding Chianti Rufina with savory grapefruit peel, tar, white pepper, dry earth, new leather and hints of mineral and fine musk. Pretty full-bodied and minerally on the palate with vertical, close-knit tannins extending to a long, savory finish. Drink or hold.

The library release 2013 Carmignano Villa di Capezzana Dieci Anni is a total pleasure on the nose, finely detailed with rich plum sauce and crushed cherry notes complicated by flowery underbrush, mint and old cedar spice box hints. It's supple and silky on the palate, with juicy acidity enlivening its ripe red fruits as a flourish of rosy inner florals and cedar evolve toward the close. While still lightly structured with adolescent tannins, the 2013 is so enjoyable today, tapering off with licorice and confectionary spice echoing that linger on and on. There's no harm in cracking open bottles today or losing them in the cellar to enjoy over the next decade.

The 2020 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Asinone holds the attention firmly with a mentholated mix of crushed blackberries, cedar shavings and a cocoa dusting. This smooths across the palate with soft and plaint textures and ripe wild berry fruits as a gentle coating of sweet tannins mounts toward the close. The 2020 leaves the palate stained with primary concentration, finishing long. This warm vintage Asinone will be the perfect option while waiting for the more structured vintages to mature.

Cerretalto is bottled separately in selected vintages only. It is given an additional year of ageing and is typically still patently austere when released. While the 2015 was almost uncharacteristically fleshy, 2016 is a return to Cerretalto’s sinewy personality. It opens gradually with distinct flint, creosote and smoke-infused wild black currants and thyme. The palate is powerful without being weighty, with chiselled tannins that are rigid but not hard-edged. A concentrated core of black salted liquorice, black raspberry and iron is pierced by tangy acidity. Ultimately an elegant wine, this will need time to express all its nuance.Drinking Window 2025 - 2045

A racy red, with high-pitched aromas of tart cherry and rose hip signaling the bracing acidity. Intense, picking up wild herbs, mineral, leather and a smoky note on the palate. Shows excellent balance and length. Best from 2025 through 2042.