At each tilt of the glass, the 2019 Podium reveals something new. Initially showing gingery spice, white smoke and yellow flower notes, it evolves into sour melon, young mango and wet stone aromas. Finally, it turns flinty, with crushed apples and raw almonds. The silky textures are almost glycerol-like, even though it is seemingly weightless in feel. It hovers above the senses while being propelled by vibrant acidity and saturating mineral tones, as ripe orchard fruits and inner florals cascade across the palate. It leaves you with an achingly youthful impression, the combination of structure and lingering notes of bitter grapefruit rind and granny smith apples. 2019 Podium is a classic in the making; and while it can be enjoyed today, the best is yet to come.

The super-flinty nose with a note of grilled lemon pulls you into this light and creamy dry pinot blanc that plows its own furrow. Quite an austere balance, due to the pronounced tannins, then wild-herb character at the very dry finish. Only 11.5% alcohol! From biodynamically grown grapes with Demeter certification. Drink or hold.

This is one of my all-time favorite Brunellos, and although personal tastes are fluid and may change from time to time, there is something timeless and solid about this wine. It's like a touchstone. The Casanova di Neri 2017 Brunello di Montalcino Tenuta Nuova is graced with a similar interlude of elegant rose or crushed flower that we saw in the annata wine. It appears more prominently here, and with more shape and focused intensity. Make no mistake, Giacomo Neri builds wines for pleasure and sensual impact, and this wine (helped by a hot growing season and 15% alcohol) ticks all those boxes. But it also shows floral elegance and sour cherry freshness that defies our expectations of the vintage.

Lushly textured, fresh and harmonious, this red features cherry, plum, sanguine, mineral and herbal aromas and flavors. The finish is persistent, leaving a savory impression. Sangiovese, Colorino and Canaiolo. Best from 2024 through 2032. 2,100 cases made, 200 cases imported.

The 2018 Barolos are absolutely beautiful.

Readers will note the addition of two new wines that have been thrilling since the first day I tasted them. The first is from a choice parcel in Cerequio Vietti acquired from Michele Chiarlo.T

he 2018 Barolo Cerequio is a new wine in this range. Soaring aromatics and bright, red-toned fruit give the Cerequio its effusive personality. Nuanced and deep, with tremendous complexity and tons of character, the Cerequio is dazzling. This is everything a great Barolo from Cerequio should be. In other words: textbook. More over, it's one of the best wines of this very uneven vintage.

The 2018 Barolo Castiglione is bright, fresh and delineated. Crushed red berry fruit, white pepper, chalk, mint and rose petal all run through this gorgeous, sculpted Barolo. The purity of the fruit and overall energy here are captivating. I would cellar the 2018 for at least a few years. It's a gorgeous wine in the making.

This red is tightly wound and austere, revealing cherry, currant, eucalyptus and grassy flavors. Though locked up now, this has a core of sweet, ripe fruit begging to emerge. Fine intensity and length. Best from 2026 through 2043.

This has aromas of olives, black fruit, cracked pepper and dried herbs. Meaty and savory, with firm, chewy tannins. Compact and medium-to full-bodied, with excellent concentration. Sustainable. Better after 2023.