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94
DECEMBER 2020
Tenuta di Capezzana Villa di Capezzana di Carmignano DOCG 2016
Made with organic fruit, the 2016 Carmignano Villa di Capezzana is an 80/20 blend of Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon. The wine is open and accessible, showing a graceful and pure quality of fruit with dark cherry, blackberry, spice, tar and tobacco. The mouthfeel is streamlined and compact, but what this wine lacks in power it makes up for in elegance. This sample from 2016 was sent along with a bottle from 2010 so that I could track its impressive bottle evolution. In fact, I widened my suggested drinking window after tasting that older bottle.
93
OCTOBER 2014
Tenuta di Capezzana Villa di Capezzana di Carmignano DOCG 2010
This is polished and beautiful with flower, dark fruit and stone character. Full body, integrated tannins and a refined and persistent finish. Some black truffle character in the aftertaste. Classy wine. Cabernet and sangiovese. Better in 2015.
92
OCTOBER 2016
Tenuta di Capezzana Villa di Capezzana di Carmignano DOCG 2012
The 2012 Carmignano Villa di Capezzana is soft, radiant and open-knit, all of which give considerable appeal today. There is good brightness and intensity to the fruit, along with lovely aromatic top notes of cedar, smoke, licorice and tobacco. Given its mid-weight structure, the 2012 is likely to offer its best drinking sooner rather than later. There is no reason to delay gratification in this impeccable, beautifully crafted Carmignano from Capezzana.
93
OCTOBER 2019
Tenuta di Capezzana Villa di Capezzana di Carmignano DOCG 2016
This pretty red features rose, cherry, strawberry and mineral flavors, staying lean and toned, with terrific balance and energy on the long finish. The mineral element prevails. Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon. Drink now through 2030. 4,500 cases made, 1,000 cases imported.
92
DECEMBER 2021
Tenuta di Capezzana Ghiaie della Furba Toscana IGT 2017
The 2017 Ghiaie della Furba opens to a bouquet of minty herbs, camphor and smoke before deepening further to display dusty red currant and spice box. This is velvety and fleshy in feel, with stimulating acidity that enlivens its spicy black fruit and building mineral tones. It tapers off with persistence, power and grippy tannin, the perfect mix for a long evolution. The Ghiaie della Furba is a blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Syrah and 20% Merlot that refines in barrique, half new and half second pass. It's important to note that production was down by 40% in 2017 due to frost.
96
DECEMBER 2020
Tenuta di Capezzana Vin Santo di Carmignano DOC Riserva 2012
What a beauty. The Tenuta di Capezzana 2012 Vin Santo di Carmignano Riserva (packaged in a 375-milliliter bottle) inches forth from the tiny bottle slowly and ultimately reveals a spectacular color that is orange, copper and almost green at the same time. I tasted bottle number 962 of a precious 4,968 produced. This Vin Santo puts on a real show thanks to its rich viscosity that slides, shifts and glistens in the glass. There are many aromas to describe, and it is hard to do this wine justice given how quickly they shift and change. There is honey, brown sugar, dried herb, forest mushroom, caramel and tilled earth. I even got a hint of rubber boot. This is a work of art and a clear passion project. Assigning a numerical score to an aspirational wine like this somehow misses the point, but here goes nothing.
93
DECEMBER 2021
Tenuta di Capezzana Villa di Capezzana di Carmignano DOCG 2017
The 2017 Carmignano Villa di Capezzana takes its time opening in the glass, at first dusty with dried cherries and only a hint of dusty rose. Yet this is worth the wait, as its berry fruit transforms into crushed plums and raspberries, complemented by sweet herbs, hints of animal musk and flowery undergrowth. It washes dark elegant waves of mineral-tinged blackberries across the palate, offset by a twang of sour citrus, as hints of cocoa and tobacco build toward the close. This is structured and noble in feel, yet with enough primary concentration to nearly mask its grippy tannins, as touches of mint and dark chocolate linger through the medium-length finale. The balance that Capezzana has culled from this torridly hot and dry vintage is remarkable. That said, the 2017 is already drinking beautifully today after a good decant. This is a blend of 80% Sangiovese to 20% Cabernet Sauvignon.
94
DECEMBER 2021
Tenuta di Capezzana Trefiano Carmignano DOCG Riserva 2016
Dark and imposing, the 2016 Carmignano Riserva Trefiano smolders up from the glass, with rich plums giving way to crushed violets, stone dust, hints of tobacco and saddle leather. An opulent wave of velvety textures floods the entire palate with ripe red and black fruits, leaving a saturation of minerals and grippy tannins in its wake. This is potent, long and structured; yet the balance is on point, as notes of hard red candies and hints of licorice fade. The 2016 Trefiano is quite a wine. This is a blend of 80% Sangiovese, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Caniolo that spends eighteen months refining in medium-toast tonneaux, half new and half second pass.
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