What a beauty. The Tenuta di Capezzana 2012 Vin Santo di Carmignano Riserva (packaged in a 375-milliliter bottle) inches forth from the tiny bottle slowly and ultimately reveals a spectacular color that is orange, copper and almost green at the same time. I tasted bottle number 962 of a precious 4,968 produced. This Vin Santo puts on a real show thanks to its rich viscosity that slides, shifts and glistens in the glass. There are many aromas to describe, and it is hard to do this wine justice given how quickly they shift and change. There is honey, brown sugar, dried herb, forest mushroom, caramel and tilled earth. I even got a hint of rubber boot. This is a work of art and a clear passion project. Assigning a numerical score to an aspirational wine like this somehow misses the point, but here goes nothing.

A vibrant, elegant red, boasting black cherry, black currant, violet, cedar and tobacco aromas and flavors. Balanced, while a swath of firm, dense tannins shore up the long, fruity and savory finish. Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Merlot. Best from 2025 through 2040.

The 2020 Rosato Vin Ruspo shows white strawberries, stems and all, along with hints of crushed stone and undergrowth. It’s silky, textured and pliant, offering notes of ripe melon and sweet spice. Hints of peach tea and a twang of sour citrus linger long. The Vin Ruspo is a blend of 80% Sangiovese, 10% Cabernet and 10% Canaiolo.

This is rich, yet densely structured, which is a foil for black cherry, blackberry, earth and rosemary flavors. Long, if a bit gruff on the finish. Feels balanced and should develop well. Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon. Best from 2024 through 2038. 5,530 cases made, 1,000 cases imported.

A concentrated mouthful of caramel, almond, chocolate, molasses and orange peel mark this dessert white, which packs a punch along with its sweetness. Bracing acidity and a walnut skin bitterness offset the viscosity and sugar deftly, allowing this to play out gracefully on the finish. Trebbiano and San Colombano. Drink now through 2040. From Italy.

While Contini Bonacossi took ownership of this estate in 1920, it has been in production since antiquity. That's a long time to hone your skills. The Bonacossi family is carrying the legacy and tradition of this estate into the future with a wide range of wines, including this lovely Vin Santo. With notes of soft caramel on the nose and a luscious butterscotch palate balanced by natural acidity, this wine is legit. Paired with some local cheese and it's sure to hit the spot.

Barco Reale di Carmignano 2019 (DOC) A blend of 75% Sangiovese, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Canaiolo, 5% Cabernet Franc; matured in 24 hl casks. Barco Reale means “royal property.” Intense ruby red/light purple; aromas of black plum, black currant and hints of myrtle and purple pansy. Medium-full with appealing ripe black berry fruit, very good acidity, medium-full tannins and notable persistence. Excellent complexity, well-integrated oak and bright fruit combine to give this wine impressive appeal. Approachable now, better in 2-3 years, peak in 5-7 years

Orange zest, dried cranberries, notes of ash and tar, as well as rosemary all spring from the glass on the nose. There’s impressive polish to the strands of lightly indented tannins which are melded together with bright acidity. Medium-bodied and medium-chewy on the finish. Drink now.