A vibrant white, with pleasing buoyancy to the fine frame of acidity as it boosts flavors of Canary melon, white peach, almond blossoms and grated ginger. Sleek and well-meshed on the lingering, saline-laced finish. Drink now through 2029.

Rose hip, pomegranate, strawberry, hay and eucalyptus aromas and flavors mark this linear, almost tart red. Offset by firm tannins, while the terrific finish leaves layers of flavor and a mouthwatering impression. Approachable now with food but better in a few years. Best from 2027 through 2043.

Bright with strawberry, cherry, rose, wild rosemary and iron aromas and flavors, this red is expressive but also firmly structured, harmonious and elegant, lingering with a complex aftertaste of fruit, mineral and savory elements. Best from 2028 through 2047. 165 cases made, 25 cases imported.

Mocha meets dried black cherries, plums and minty herbs as the 2020 Carmignano Riserva Trefiano slowly evolves in the glass. This is silky smooth and cool-toned in feel, with a sour citrus tinge elevating ripe wild berry fruits as hints of sage embellish the close. It finishes pleasantly bitter and incredibly long, leaving crystalline tannins to pierce the palate as echoes of licorice and minerals slowly taper off. This shows the warmth of the vintage, but does so with impeccable balance.

Mentholated herbs mix with exotic spice, tobacco and crushed ashen stones as the 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva PS blossoms in the glass. This is sleek and youthfully slender, with tart wild berry fruits and hints of sour citrus that flow across a stream of cooling acidity. It finishes structured and impossibly long, leaving a pleasantly tart cranberry concentration that pinches at the cheeks. There's significantly more energy and verve embodied in the 2019 Riserva than is typical. It should be fascinating to watch it mature over time.

This is a very pleasant and affordable wine that could be termed “Barolo light.” The importer had a hand in its production, sourcing grapes from the various villages in this northwestern Italian region and putting together what was once termed a “shippers’ wine,” not meant to be a blockbuster but rather a good introductory bottle. This has smooth black raspberry and blackberry flavors that allow for easy drinking without the assertive tannins that Nebbiolo wines from this appellation normally exhibit — and which add to their reputation but also their need for aging.