The Tenuta Tascante 2017 Etna Rosso Contrada Sciaranuova also comes from the Randazzo village, where the volcanic geology is quite complex, with new and ancient lava flows that crisscross and where viticulture transitions to important pistachio nut farming. This delicate wine opens to a mild ruby color and offers pretty notes of wild plum, dark cherry, tarry smoke and campfire ash. And yes, there is a distinctive touch of toasted nut or pistachio. The tannins are firm in this wine, revealing important staying power to the palate. Serve it with a cheese-and-honey platter with slices of fresh bread and savor those nutty notes.

Primarily Sangiovese with small amounts of Canaiolo, Ciliegiolo and Colorino. Bright garnet of medium intensity; aromas of morel cherry, heather, cedar and dried red flowers. Medium-full, this offers beautiful varietal character and typicity. Mediumweight, refined tannins, beautifully integrated, subtle wood notes. Notable persistence, lovely harmony – a well-made and expressive traditional styled Chianti Classico riserva. Enjoyable now, but will reveal greater character in another 2-3 years, with peak drinking in 6-10 years.

Very intense blackberries and spice with some earth and violets. Really complex. Full-bodied with layers of ripe tannins, yet they are firm and formed. Shows how well this cool area does in a hot vintage. Attractive now, but needs time to open. Try after 2023.

Very potent aromas of blackcurrants and toasted oak with hints of eucalyptus and black-cherry liqueur, following through to a full palate with firm tannins that drive the fruit on through the long finish. There’s a kind of raw, almost rough-and-ready character to this that’s a bit hard work now. Will even out with bottle age. One for the cellar. Try from 2024.

The 2017 Chianti Classico Riserva is laced with cinnamon, blood orange, wild cherry, tobacco and incense, all of which give it a decidedly exotic flair. The 2017 is a rich, dense Riserva, but I would prefer to drink it on the airy side, before it starts to lose its freshness and vibrancy.

Made with fruit from old vines, the Tenuta Tascante 2017 Etna Rosso Contrada Sciaranuova V.V. is powerful and delicate at the same time, and it strikes a careful balance between these two opposing forces. This is one of the biggest compliments you can give to a wine from Etna, one of the most dramatic and violent winemaking panoramas on Earth. This lovely Nerello Mascalese shows aromas of cherry and wild rose with toasted nut, scorched earth and lavender essence. The concentration and staying power from those old vines add considerably to the depth, tannic power and complexity of this age-worthy bottle.