Aromas of apples, lemons, beeswax, thyme, white pepper and acacia honey. It’s medium-to full-bodied with fresh acidity. Layered, mineral and complex. Flavorful and long. Drink or hold.
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Malvasia is one of the grape names that has been applied rather indiscriminately to a number of sort-of-similar but unrelated aromatic grape varieties. Among the gaggle of more than a dozen different Malvasias, one of the most respected examples is known as Malvasia di Lipari, named after a small island off the northeast corner of Sicily. Lipari is the largest of eight isles in this area collectively known as the Lipari Islands or, more often, the Aeolian Islands.
The Aeolian Islands are known for their volcanism—two of the islands, Vulcano and Stromboli, are still active volcanoes—which has earned them a place on the World Heritage list. They are also known for a delicious sweet dessert wine made from the indigenous Malvasia di Lipari, a large portion of which is consumed by the thousands of tourists who come to enjoy the islands’ beautiful beaches and sunshine in the summer.
The most attractive of the Aeolians is the island of Salina (where much of the movie Il Postino was filmed). The noble Tasca d’Almerita family, which has been at the forefront of production and research in Sicily’s wine industry since 1830, acquired 12 acres of vines in Malfa on the northeast point of Salina. The spot is called Capofaro, meaning Lighthouse Cape, and indeed an important lighthouse stands next to the vines, guiding the numerous interisland ferries and other boats around the headland.
At the time of purchase, the vineyards were planted with 30-year-old Malvasia vines, of which Tasca kept the healthy ones and filled in with new plantings. Modern viticultural practices were introduced with a particular goal of better protecting the grapes from sun and wind damage to maintain fresh flavors and aromas. This is demonstrated in one of the two wines made here, Dydime, an atypical Malvasia made with fresh grapes and finished dry. Tenuta Capofaro’s other wine, “Capofaro,” is closer to the traditional sweet dessert wine of the island, taking advantage of new technologies. The grapes are brought indoors intact after harvest and are laid out to dry in order to dehydrate them and concentrate their sugars and flavor components. After a few weeks of drying, they are vinified into a classic sweet island wine. However, Capofaro is not a traditional Malvasia delle Lipari DOC wine, which requires a small addition of a grape called Corinto Nero. Tasca prefers the pure expression of Malvasia and therefore the 100% Malvasia wine is made under the auspices of IGP Salina.
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LOCATIONWINERY: Malfa, Salina Island (Messina province), Sicily VINEYARD: Malfa, Salina Island, Sicily VIEW IN GOOGLE MAPS REGION DETAILS |
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93
AUGUST 2021
Tenuta Capofaro “Didyme” Salina IGT 2020
![]() Aromas of apples, lemons, beeswax, thyme, white pepper and acacia honey. It’s medium-to full-bodied with fresh acidity. Layered, mineral and complex. Flavorful and long. Drink or hold. 92
AUGUST 2023
Tenuta Capofaro “Didyme” Salina IGT 2022
![]() A nose that is at first floral and citrusy, with orange blossom and jasmine, then becomes saline with oyster shells, with the salinity becoming the defining feature of the palate, soaring higher with the help of more citrus and plenty of acidity. This is a beautifully balanced expression of this aromatic grape. 93
JULY 2022
Tenuta Capofaro “Capofaro” Salina IGT 2020
![]() This has a fragrant nose of nectarines, poached pears, apricot compote and acacia honey. Sweet, fruity and creamy, with a deliciously peachy palate. Balanced and lengthy. Malvasia. Drink now or hold. 90
SEPTEMBER 2023
Tenuta Capofaro “Capofaro” Salina IGT 2021
![]() The 2021 Malvasia delle Lipari Capofaro is unique, sometimes more savory than sweet, with a burst of sea air and crushed rocks giving way to candied lime and crushed green apples. It's remarkably fresh and zesty within. Sour citrus and vibrant acidity motivate its ripe orchard fruits as tropical florals form toward the close. The 2021 tapers off incredibly spicy yet with a lingering sweetness as well, leaving an almost salty sensation to linger. It's an enjoyable yet completely unique dessert wine. 93
NOVEMBER 2021
Tenuta Capofaro “Capofaro” Salina IGT 2019
![]() This is always such a fun and cheerful wine to enjoy at the end of an outdoor meal with an evening seascape somewhere in the distance. The Tenuta Capofaro 2019 Tenuta Capofaro (in a 500-milliliter bottle) is made with air-dried fruit (the appassimento process takes place on the island of Salina in a special fruttaio room for air-drying with controlled temperatures, but the Tasca team makes this wine at their home-base winery on Sicily; for that reason, this wine is identified with the IGT Salina appellation). As you might expect, winemaking is impeccable, and the aromas are clear and concise with fresh peach, minty apple and Sicilian night-blooming jasmine. The wine is full and elegant but graceful all the while with a crisp and polished mouthfeel. Tenuta Capofaro is among the least sticky and freshest of the dessert wines presented in this report.
91
JULY 2022
Tenuta Capofaro “Didyme” Salina IGT 2021
![]() A medium-bodied white with aromas of juniper berries, star fruit, guava and lemon blossom. Fruity, with tangy and lemony acidity. Subtly salty and spicy, too. Delicious now. 90
JUNE 2024
Tenuta Capofaro “Didyme” Salina IGT 2023
![]() The 2023 Malvasia Didyme wafts up with a seductively spicy blend of green melon, minty herbs and salty sea air. This is luxuriously round and supple, with a saline tinge contrasting depths of ripe orchard fruits as zests of lime add a lovely tension toward the close. The 2023 finishes incredibly fresh and nearly crunchy in feel, with a cheek-puckering freshness that lingers on. 92
DECEMBER 2019
Tenuta Capofaro “Didyme” Salina IGT 2018
![]() This opens with enticing scents of yellow stone fruit, rosemary, Mediterranean scrub and citrus. The savory, linear palate doles out juicy ripe apricot, Meyer lemon and crushed herbs before an energizing saline finish. It's balanced, with tangy acidity. |