This has aromas of wild raspberries, plums, almond blossom, sandalwood, clay and green olives on the nose. Medium-bodied with fine, creamy tannins. Supple and transparent. Very fine. Even better from 2024.
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During the 17th and 18th centuries, England and France were frequently at war with each other, which among other things meant that England was periodically cut off from its usual sources of wine across the Channel. Looking farther afield, they found substitutes for their French clarets in far-away Tuscany. The market for Chianti and other Tuscan wines grew and brought in significant revenue, to the point that Grand Duke Cosimo III de’ Medici, ruler of Tuscany for more than 50 years beginning in 1670, realized that this market sector needed some regulation to protect its value. Therefore, in 1716, he issued a bando (decree) that defined exactly which parts of his realm were suitable for the production of its most renowned wines. Among the four areas that Cosimo elaborated was a zone called Pomino.
Pomino is the name of a current wine denomination, but the Pomino region defined by Cosimo III was much larger—essentially the same as the Rùfina subzone of the Chianti DOCG today. Thus, Chianti Rùfina was one of the areas (along with Chianti Classico, Carmignano, and Val d’Arno di Sopra) defined in the world’s earliest-known denomination protection law. It celebrated the bando’s 300th anniversary in 2016.
Selvapiana is among the best-known and most respected of the two dozen growers in Rùfina—the smallest subzone of Chianti—and as it happens is also one of only two wineries to produce wine from the tiny Pomino DOC. The Selvapiana winery, like all of Chianti Rùfina, lies close to the Sieve River, a tributary of the Arno upriver from Florence. The air is cooler and cleaner here than in the city, which is why these hills have long been a retreat for aristocrats escaping Florence’s summer heat. During the Renaissance, one noble Florentine family constructed the Selvapiana residence by enlarging a medieval watchtower that was one of the outposts guarding Florence from invading enemies.
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SELVAPIANA “FORNACE” TOSCANA IGT
Fornace is Selvapiana’s Super Tuscan wine, based entirely on Bordeaux grape varieties—Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc—grown on the estate. |
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LOCATIONWINERY: Rùfina (suburb of Florence), Tuscany VINEYARD: Rùfina subzone of Chianti, Tuscany VIEW IN GOOGLE MAPS REGION DETAILS |
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94
JUNE 2022
Selvapiana “Bucerchiale” Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2019
This has aromas of wild raspberries, plums, almond blossom, sandalwood, clay and green olives on the nose. Medium-bodied with fine, creamy tannins. Supple and transparent. Very fine. Even better from 2024. 94
AUGUST 2023
Selvapiana “Bucerchiale” Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2019
Bricks and Bing cherries and an almost ethereal aroma of orange blossom on top of crushed rock and graphite are on the nose, with more savory notes of leather and spice developing on the palate, emphasized by the austerity of chalky tannins. 90
JULY 2020
Selvapiana Chianti Rufina DOCG 2018
Chianti Rufina 2018 is the least expensive ($19), the easiest to enjoy, and the readiest to drink. Its nose is surprisingly fruity and vibrant for a Chianti; it suggests fresh red cherries, dried herbs, fresh mint and thyme, and licorice. In your mouth, the wine is dry and medium-bodied, a light-ish red with a spine of acidity and just a medium amount of tannin, with fruity flavors similar to its aromas. A noteworthy aspect of this wine is how well it “hangs” in your mouth — fruitiness in the front, acidity up the middle and a combination of fruitiness and textured tannin in the back. It’s a complete wine that delivers all across your mouth. Did I mention the price? Despite these connotations of “lesser than,” it’s the wine I really want to drink, especially now, in July. 94
AUGUST 2021
Selvapiana “Bucerchiale” Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2018
A very pure and beautiful red with cherry and strawberry. Subtle spice, such as nutmeg and cedar. Orange peel, too. Medium to full body. Firm, silky tannins melt nicely into the wine. Fresh and clean finish. A little tight at the end. A beautiful single-vineyard Chianti Rufina with structure. Drinkable now, but better after 2023, when it will have softened a little. 93
SEPTEMBER 2023
Selvapiana Vin Santo del Chianti Rufina DOC 2013
This is still fresh and blooming. Aromas of orange marmalade, tangerine peel, and red date tea with a hint of almond. Strikes the balance between acidity and sweetness. Not overpowering. Lingering ginger and clove aftertaste. Drink now or hold. 93
JUNE 2022
Selvapiana “Villa Petrognano” Pomino DOC 2019
This has aromas of dried herbs, crushed raspberries, blackberries, grilled meat and orange peel. Medium-bodied with chewy tannins and a savory, wild and firm palate. Tangy acidity, too. Better after 2023. 97
OCTOBER 2021
Selvapiana “Bucerchiale” Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2017
Fattoria Selvapiana is one of Rùfina's modest superstars, defined by its very low-key profile and red wines that combine generously free-flowing fruit and faultless terroir expression. The lovely light tang in every sip stems from a mix of clay-limestone that provides fatness and juiciness, while schist or galestro engenders underlying depth. Organic. 94
OCTOBER 2018
Selvapiana “Bucerchiale” Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2013
This is a deliciously decadent Chianti Rufina with aromas and flavors of berries, cherries, wet leaves and coffee. Full body, chewy tannins and a flavorful finish. Drink now or hold. |