Bricks and Bing cherries and an almost ethereal aroma of orange blossom on top of crushed rock and graphite are on the nose, with more savory notes of leather and spice developing on the palate, emphasized by the austerity of chalky tannins.
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During the 17th and 18th centuries, England and France were frequently at war with each other, which among other things meant that England was periodically cut off from its usual sources of wine across the Channel. Looking farther afield, they found substitutes for their French clarets in far-away Tuscany. The market for Chianti and other Tuscan wines grew and brought in significant revenue, to the point that Grand Duke Cosimo III de’ Medici, ruler of Tuscany for more than 50 years beginning in 1670, realized that this market sector needed some regulation to protect its value. Therefore, in 1716, he issued a bando (decree) that defined exactly which parts of his realm were suitable for the production of its most renowned wines. Among the four areas that Cosimo elaborated was a zone called Pomino.
Pomino is the name of a current wine denomination, but the Pomino region defined by Cosimo III was much larger—essentially the same as the Rùfina subzone of the Chianti DOCG today. Thus, Chianti Rùfina was one of the areas (along with Chianti Classico, Carmignano, and Val d’Arno di Sopra) defined in the world’s earliest-known denomination protection law. It celebrated the bando’s 300th anniversary in 2016.
Selvapiana is among the best-known and most respected of the two dozen growers in Rùfina—the smallest subzone of Chianti—and as it happens is also one of only two wineries to produce wine from the tiny Pomino DOC. The Selvapiana winery, like all of Chianti Rùfina, lies close to the Sieve River, a tributary of the Arno upriver from Florence. The air is cooler and cleaner here than in the city, which is why these hills have long been a retreat for aristocrats escaping Florence’s summer heat. During the Renaissance, one noble Florentine family constructed the Selvapiana residence by enlarging a medieval watchtower that was one of the outposts guarding Florence from invading enemies.
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SELVAPIANA “FORNACE” TOSCANA IGT
Fornace is Selvapiana’s Super Tuscan wine, based entirely on Bordeaux grape varieties—Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc—grown on the estate. |
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LOCATIONWINERY: Rùfina (suburb of Florence), Tuscany VINEYARD: Rùfina subzone of Chianti, Tuscany VIEW IN GOOGLE MAPS REGION DETAILS |
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94
AUGUST 2023
Selvapiana “Bucerchiale” Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2019
![]() Bricks and Bing cherries and an almost ethereal aroma of orange blossom on top of crushed rock and graphite are on the nose, with more savory notes of leather and spice developing on the palate, emphasized by the austerity of chalky tannins. 93
DECEMBER 2023
Selvapiana “Bucerchiale” Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2019
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94
JUNE 2022
Selvapiana “Bucerchiale” Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2019
![]() This has aromas of wild raspberries, plums, almond blossom, sandalwood, clay and green olives on the nose. Medium-bodied with fine, creamy tannins. Supple and transparent. Very fine. Even better from 2024. 94
AUGUST 2021
Selvapiana “Bucerchiale” Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2018
![]() A very pure and beautiful red with cherry and strawberry. Subtle spice, such as nutmeg and cedar. Orange peel, too. Medium to full body. Firm, silky tannins melt nicely into the wine. Fresh and clean finish. A little tight at the end. A beautiful single-vineyard Chianti Rufina with structure. Drinkable now, but better after 2023, when it will have softened a little. 95
AUGUST 2021
Selvapiana “Bucerchiale” Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2017
![]() Very intense blackberries and spice with some earth and violets. Really complex. Full-bodied with layers of ripe tannins, yet they are firm and formed. Shows how well this cool area does in a hot vintage. Attractive now, but needs time to open. Try after 2023. 93
MAY 2019
Selvapiana “Bucerchiale” Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2015
![]() The Selvapiana 2015 Chianti Rufina Riserva Vigneto Bucerchiale is a generous and exuberant expression of Sangiovese that remains everfaithful to its traditional and territory-driven roots. This wine speaks with a Tuscan tongue, giving voice to wild berry, earthy truffle and aromas of Mediterranean herb. The finish is softly fruity with subtle structure (which is firm and binding nonetheless) and fresh acidity. - Monica Larner 92
SEPTEMBER 2023
Selvapiana “Villa Petrognano” Pomino DOC 2020
![]() Peppercorns, briar, dark spices and black cherries on the nose. Juicy and pretty vertical on the palate with a medium body and firm, fresh tannins. Medium-long finish. Drink now. 95
SEPTEMBER 2021
Selvapiana "Vigneto Erchi" Chianti Rufina DOCG Riserva 2017
![]() Wow. What glorious aromas of pure fruit with black cherries and currants. Really floral, too. Orange peel and tangerines. Full-bodied with really focused, polished tannins that coat your mouth, yet remain fine and beautiful. Goes on for minutes. Drinkable now, but much better in 2023 when it will have softened and come together. |