This has aromas of dried herbs, crushed raspberries, blackberries, grilled meat and orange peel. Medium-bodied with chewy tannins and a savory, wild and firm palate. Tangy acidity, too. Better after 2023.
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During the 17th and 18th centuries, England and France were frequently at war with each other, which among other things meant that England was periodically cut off from its usual sources of wine across the Channel. Looking farther afield, they found substitutes for their French clarets in far-away Tuscany. The market for Chianti and other Tuscan wines grew and brought in significant revenue, to the point that Grand Duke Cosimo III de’ Medici, ruler of Tuscany for more than 50 years beginning in 1670, realized that this market sector needed some regulation to protect its value. Therefore, in 1716, he issued a bando (decree) that defined exactly which parts of his realm were suitable for the production of its most renowned wines. Among the four areas that Cosimo elaborated was a zone called Pomino.
Pomino is the name of a current wine denomination, but the Pomino region defined by Cosimo III was much larger—essentially the same as the Rùfina subzone of the Chianti DOCG today. Thus, Chianti Rùfina was one of the areas (along with Chianti Classico, Carmignano, and Val d’Arno di Sopra) defined in the world’s earliest-known denomination protection law. It celebrated the bando’s 300th anniversary in 2016.
Selvapiana is among the best-known and most respected of the two dozen growers in Rùfina—the smallest subzone of Chianti—and as it happens is also one of only two wineries to produce wine from the tiny Pomino DOC. The Selvapiana winery, like all of Chianti Rùfina, lies close to the Sieve River, a tributary of the Arno upriver from Florence. The air is cooler and cleaner here than in the city, which is why these hills have long been a retreat for aristocrats escaping Florence’s summer heat. During the Renaissance, one noble Florentine family constructed the Selvapiana residence by enlarging a medieval watchtower that was one of the outposts guarding Florence from invading enemies.
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SELVAPIANA “FORNACE” TOSCANA IGT
Fornace is Selvapiana’s Super Tuscan wine, based entirely on Bordeaux grape varieties—Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc—grown on the estate. |
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LOCATIONWINERY: Rùfina (suburb of Florence), Tuscany VINEYARD: Rùfina subzone of Chianti, Tuscany VIEW IN GOOGLE MAPS REGION DETAILS |
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93
JUNE 2022
Selvapiana “Villa Petrognano” Pomino DOC 2019
![]() This has aromas of dried herbs, crushed raspberries, blackberries, grilled meat and orange peel. Medium-bodied with chewy tannins and a savory, wild and firm palate. Tangy acidity, too. Better after 2023. 93
JULY 2020
Selvapiana "Vigneto Erchi" Chianti Rufina DOCG 2016
![]() The newest wine in the Selvapiana lineup. When Selvapiana’s owners, the Giuntini family, purchased this land in 1999, it was the first purchase they had made since 1897. 2016 is the first release from this vineyard. On the nose, this wine is complex but tight, showing savory mineral notes that combine with concentrated red cherry, spicy oak and woodsy herbal hints. After that tight nose, the wine seems surprisingly rich in flavor when it enters your mouth, all dark berry fruit but in a truly dry wine, not at all the sort of rich, fruity flavor many wine drinkers might be accustomed to. The wine has high acidity and an abundant amount of velvety tannin, but not enough tannin to overwhelm that fruit. Again, there’s balance happening here between the aromatics and the structure. 96
FEBRUARY 2021
Selvapiana “Bucerchiale” Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2016
![]() Loaded with personality, this opens with aromas of forest floor, new leather, camphor and ripe black-skinned fruit. The palate boasts an earthy elegance reminiscent of top Burgundies, showcasing ripe black cherry, crushed raspberry, truffle, star anise and a hint of salted game. Firm, fine-grained tannins provide support while fresh acidity keeps it balanced. Drink 2022–2036. 93
NOVEMBER 2020
Selvapiana “Bucerchiale” Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2016
![]() VALUE ITALY PICK OF THE WEEK Dark and brooding, this red features ripe black cherry, blackberry, wild herb, earth and iron flavors. Gains in richness, density and ripeness what it loses in freshness, though shows fine balance and length. Drink now through 2028 93
AUGUST 2021
Selvapiana Chianti Rufina DOCG 2019
![]() Black cherry, crushed stone and citrus fruit on the nose. Aromatic and pleasing. Medium-bodied with vivid fruit and a fresh finish. Very typical Chianti Rufina with subtle, clean fruit and bright acidity. 97
OCTOBER 2021
Selvapiana “Bucerchiale” Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2017
![]() Fattoria Selvapiana is one of Rùfina's modest superstars, defined by its very low-key profile and red wines that combine generously free-flowing fruit and faultless terroir expression. The lovely light tang in every sip stems from a mix of clay-limestone that provides fatness and juiciness, while schist or galestro engenders underlying depth. Organic. 94
JUNE 2022
Selvapiana “Bucerchiale” Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2019
![]() This has aromas of wild raspberries, plums, almond blossom, sandalwood, clay and green olives on the nose. Medium-bodied with fine, creamy tannins. Supple and transparent. Very fine. Even better from 2024. 93
JUNE 2022
Selvapiana Chianti Rufina DOCG 2020
![]() So much crushed-stone character here with citrus and black-cherry aromas. Medium-bodied with iodine and oyster-shell undertones to the blue fruit. Lemon rind at the end. Drink or hold. |