Dark and juicy, with an aromatic overtone of fragrant herb, this shows flavors blackberry compote with hints of eucalyptus and anise hyssop, mocha and smoke sculpted by fine tannins that firm the focused finish. Drink now through 2029.
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Puglia has a long agrarian history, thanks to its relatively high proportion of flat or rolling terrain suitable for growing crops. For many centuries, Puglia’s agriculture was dominated by extensive land grants from the ruling nobility. Known as latifundi, these holdings were the equivalent of plantations or haciendas in other countries, often controlled by absentee landowners and worked by local peasants and sharecroppers. Beginning in the 16th century in Puglia, many of these latifundi began to build structures known as masserie. The masseria was sort of a cross between a castle and a farmhouse and was designed to improve the life of the farmworkers. It was typically a large stone building located in or near the fields of the latifundo with room for the managers and many of the farmworkers to sleep and for storage of equipment and harvests. It was also intended to be strong enough to protect the inhabitants from raids by pirates, bandits, and marauding soldiers.
The latifundi began to be broken up during the period of Napoleonic rule in Italy at the end of the 1700s and early 1800s, and the essentially feudal system that they represented was outlawed in 1950. By that time, most of the masserias had fallen into disrepair. One such ruin was Masseria Li Veli, located near the center of the Salento Peninsula in southern Puglia, on the southern slopes of the Murgia plateau. Many masserias have been reconstructed as residences or agritourism accommodations beginning in the 1970s, but this particular one was rebuilt much earlier for a different purpose.
The crumbling Masseria Li Veli was acquired in the late 19th century by Marchese Antonio de Viti de Marco (1858–1943), an important economist and professor who was influential in the theory of public finance in the Kingdom of Italy. In 1895, the masseria was restored to serve as a model wine cellar, demonstrating an ambitious concept for economic development for all of southern Italy. It stayed in operation until the 1950s.
The masseria is once again functioning as an important winemaking facility, having been renovated and modernized into an up-to-date production center for the Li Veli wines. The Falvo family, former owners of the Avignonesi winery in Tuscany but with Puglian roots, purchased the masseria and its 128 acres of land in 1999 and breathed new life into de Viti de Marco’s project. The vision is to establish a new quality benchmark in the region, through both vineyard management and vinification.
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LOCATIONWINERY: Cellino San Marco (Brindisi province), Puglia VINEYARD: Salento peninsula, Puglia VIEW IN GOOGLE MAPS REGION DETAILS |
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91
DECEMBER 2023
Masseria Li Veli “Askos” Susumaniello Salento IGT 2021
Dark and juicy, with an aromatic overtone of fragrant herb, this shows flavors blackberry compote with hints of eucalyptus and anise hyssop, mocha and smoke sculpted by fine tannins that firm the focused finish. Drink now through 2029. 92
JUNE 2021
Masseria Li Veli “Torrerose” Negroamaro Rosato Salento IGT 2020
How about a glass of this delightful Rosé made from Negroamaro/Negro Amaro from the Falvo family in Puglia, aka the heel of Italy’s boot? It has a brilliant golden rose-pink color, clearly a short time on those black grapes. Aromas of fresh, juicy strawberries and raspberries with a floral note welcome intense flavors of strawberries, raspberries and red plums intensified by vibrant acidity. It is bone dry making it a great treat on the table with grilled salmon or a summer pasta salad. 90
OCTOBER 2020
Masseria Li Veli “Passamante” Salice Salentino DOC 2018
Spicy and savory on the nose, this red shows loads of thyme, bay leaf and pepper, with ripe dark plum riding behind. The palate is smooth and supple, with bright acidity pushing it along, yet all the while succulent flavors of dark plum and berry fruit never skip a beat. Herbs and spice play second fiddle to the fruit on the palate but lend nice grip alongside firm yet polished tannins. 90
APRIL 2022
Masseria Li Veli “Askos” Susumaniello Rosato Salento IGT 2021
The 2021 Rosato Susumaniello Askos is understated and dusty in character, yet with an exotic spiciness that keeps me coming back to the glass. It washes across that palate with glycerol-like textures, while delivering ripe green melon and sweet inner herbal tones. While a bit short, the Askos succeeds in leaving the senses completely refreshed and aching for another sip. 92
MAY 2021
Masseria Li Veli “Askos” Susumaniello Rosato Salento IGT 2020
THE 25 BEST ROSÉ WINES OF 2021 RANKED #3 Deeply flavorful with excellent concentration, this well-rounded rosé wowed our panel. Essences of licorice, basil, and red fruit make this wine stand out among the pack. Soft and creamy with a subtle dollop of sweetness. The wine is round on the palate, yet it's crisp and refreshing. It smells like honeysuckle and orange blossoms, with an affordable price point, it’s a great bottle to bring to summer gatherings large and small. 88
NOVEMBER 2022
Masseria Li Veli "Torremossa" Fiano Salento IGT 2021
A salty, light-bodied white, featuring ripe
Gala apple, white blossoms, pickled ginger and a pleasingly bitter hint of pink grapefruit peel. Lively. Drink now. 3,000 cases made, 800 cases imported. 91
JULY 2021
Masseria Li Veli “Pezzo Morgana” Salice Salentino Riserva DOC 2017
Dusty rose, cloves, cinnamon, dried black cherries and hints of camphor emanate from the 2017 Salice Salentino Pezzo Morgana Riserva. It’s silky and pliant in feel, with cool-toned red and hints of blue fruit, further lifted by juicy acids and sour citrus tones, as fine tannins slowly saturate toward the close. The Pezzo Morgana finishes structured and long, tart currants and exotic spices tapering off under an air of violet florals. This is a single-vineyard varietal Negroamaro that’s refined for 12 months in barriques, which it handles quite well, coming across as nicely polished. 89
APRIL 2022
Masseria Li Veli “Torrerose” Negroamaro Rosato Salento IGT 2021
A bouquet of pretty florals, sweet smoke and crushed apples waft up from the 2021 Rosato Negroamaro Torrerose. It’s softly textured with medium-bodied weight, nicely framed by bright acidity, as perfumed orchard fruits cascade across the palate. This leaves a mineral and green citrus note while finishing with medium length. |