This is a light and vivid red with crushed-berry and citrus character. It’s medium-to light-bodied with fine tannins that run the length of the wine. Delicate and delicious. Drink now.
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One of the most interesting hotbeds of white-wine production in Italy is Collio Goriziano, a stretch of the hilly border of Friuli with Slovenia. Good growing conditions for white grape varieties, a penchant for experimentation, and talented winemakers combine to put this out-of-the-way area on the wine map. Two of the top producers in Collio are Marco Felluga and Russiz Superiore, both of which are now under the leadership of sixth-generation Ilaria Felluga, who is following in the footsteps of her father, Roberto Felluga, and her grandfather, Marco Felluga. Both Roberto and Marco are icons for the region and were responsible for holding Collio to extremely high standards of production and viticulture.
The Felluga family traces its wine industry lineage to the late 1800s, when Ilaria Felluga’s great-great-great-grandfather Michele started a business buying and selling wines in Istria (then part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire). Michele’s son Marco added winemaking to the business, growing grapes and making some wine on the family farm just south of Trieste in what is now southwestern Slovenia. After World War I, Marco’s son Giovanni continued the family wine trade, selling Istrian wine in Trieste and in Grado in southern Friuli. He also opened a cellar in Gradisca d’Isonzo in Collio in 1938, but World War II soon broke out, disrupting life for a decade.
After the war, Istria became part of Soviet-dominated Yugoslavia, the family lost their farm there, and Collio became their home. Two of Giovanni’s seven children ultimately established wineries in the vicinity. Marco Felluga, after graduating from the renowned enology school in Conegliano, worked for his elder brother Livio for a while, before Livio left to open his own winery in Rosazzo. Marco stayed in the walled 15th-century fortress town of Gradisca d’Isonzo and founded his eponymous winery in 1956.
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LOCATIONWINERY: Gradisca d’Isonzo (Gorizia province), Friuli–Venezia Giulia VINEYARD: Collio area (Gorizia province), Friuli–Venezia Giulia VIEW IN GOOGLE MAPS REGION DETAILS |
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92
JUNE 2021
Marco Felluga “Ronco dei Moreri” Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso Venezia Giulia IGT 2018
This is a light and vivid red with crushed-berry and citrus character. It’s medium-to light-bodied with fine tannins that run the length of the wine. Delicate and delicious. Drink now. 90
NOVEMBER 2020
Marco Felluga “Mongris” Pinot Grigio Collio DOC 2019
If you are curious about the wines of the Marco Felluga winery, check out the 2019 "Mongris" Pinot Grigio (yes, Pinot Grigio) from Collio - and forget any stereotypes of Pinot Grigio as basically a crisp, straightforward, simple white wine. Here you’ll find notes of lemon, apple, pear and peach in a medium-bodied white with rich texture. 91
AUGUST 2023
Marco Felluga "Amani" Friulano Collio DOC 2022
This is fresh and savory with green apples, lemon peel, crushed herbs and jasmine on the nose, following through to a medium body with a chalky mouthfeel and spicy, phenolic edge to its texture. Zesty finish. Drink now. 96
DECEMBER 2022
Marco Felluga "Amani" Friulano Collio DOC 2021
Decanter’s Wines of the Year 2022. Leesy and rubbery, this has intense marzipan and earthy notes like dry white mushrooms. Fresh and creamy in the mouth, it's distinctively gentle, with a long, very pure and fruity finish. Elegant and delicious. 93
FEBRUARY 2021
Marco Felluga “Molamatta” Collio Bianco DOC 2015
More than five years into its evolution, this wine performs as if it were much younger than it really is. A blend of Pinot Bianco, Ribolla Gialla and Friulano, the Marco Felluga 2015 Collio Molamatta strikes a terrific balance between fruity freshness and creamy texture. The bouquet reveals white peach, poached pear, quince and toasted almond. It would make a great companion to some steamed mussels in a creamy garlic sauce. 93
AUGUST 2021
Marco Felluga “Molamatta” Collio Bianco DOC 2017
Honeysuckle, cooked apples, grilled pears, butter, praline and roasted hazelnuts on the nose. It’s full-bodied, rich and buttery. Plenty of spice and butterscotch. Opulent and toasty finish. Drink now. 91
SEPTEMBER 2023
Marco Felluga “Varneri” Merlot Collio DOC 2021
A rich and toasty merlot offering dark berries, cocoa powder, sweet spices and tarry undertones. Full-bodied. Firm and structured but with succulence to the fruit and a supple, more fluid mid-palate. Juicy and rich finish. Drink now. 90
APRIL 2022
Marco Felluga “Mongris” Pinot Grigio Collio DOC 2020
The sweetly scented 2020 Pinot Grigio Mongris soothes with it’s bouquet of white flowers, ripe pear and hints of vanilla bean. It’s round and enveloping with a stimulating core of zesty green citrus and brisk acids that create wonderful contrasts. This leaves the palate buzzing with residual tension, while tapering off long, spicy and perfumed. |