This is one of the most structured Barbarescos from here, showing lots of dark fruit and black olives, together with bark and black truffles. Full-bodied and layered with fantastic structure and a long finish. Needs four or five years to come around.

"Aromas of vanilla and spicy oak embrace the cherry and plum flavors here. Tar, tobacco and eucalyptus accents chime in as a thick matrix of tannins truncates the finish. It feels chunky today, yet should stretch out in time. Best from 2024 through 2043. 602 cases made."

The daring nose here beckons you in, captivating with its wide range of dried oregano, rosemary, thyme, dried cranberries, tamarind and lemon drizzle cake. Then it seduces you with its athletic build, casting a steely net of crafty tannins over soft fruit, like chain mail over supple skin. A spattering of acidity rises from the midst, electrifying the whole palate and turning any remnants of dried fruit into raindrops of mineral citrus. Not a hugely powerful wine, but an essay in structure and elegance. Drink from 2024.    

There is austerity here, and you almost immediately feel that the wine is quite dry in this vintage. With the Tenute Cisa Asinari dei Marchesi di Gresy 2017 Barbaresco Gaiun Martinenga that dryness seems to translate to both the quality of fruit and the tannins. This impression is momentary, as there is a point of cherry sweetness on the mid-palate that acts as an immediate jolt of energy and vitality to the bouquet. It takes a little while to get there, but the wine does deliver in the end.

The 2021 Langhe Nebbiolo Martinenga is a gorgeous, effusive wine that will give readers a very good idea of what to expect before the more important Barbarescos are released in the coming years. Floral and spice notes meld into a core of red/purplish berry fruit. Short fermentations and aging in cement works so well in exalting fresh, floral-infused fruit. The 2021 is a joyous wine.

The 2017 Barbaresco Gaiun Martinenga is a soft, delicate wine. It offers a bit less textural richness than is often the case. Orange peel, spice, mint, crushed raspberry and dried flowers open nicely in the glass. Gaiun is typically a more exuberant wine than this. The 2017 is attractive, but also a bit light. I would give the tannins a few years to soften.

This delicate, midweight wine opens with scents of fresh cherry and dewy rose petal that lead into tangy red berry flavors brightened by a twist of orange zest. Some dark mineral tones emerge with air, but this is a wine to enjoy in the next five years.

A release of 26,380 bottles, the Tenute Cisa Asinari dei Marchesi di Gresy 2019 Barbera d'Asti is a medium-weight expression with lots of bright and simple notes of cherry and raspberry, The wine delivers good power and intensity at below its weight class. There is bright acidity and an easy, silky mouthfeel that conjures a wine of clean simplicity that's great for pizza.