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90
JUNE 2021
Garofoli “Kómaros” Montepulciano Rosato Marche IGT 2020
The Montepulciano grape is considered one of Italy’s best grapes for Rosato wines. Garofoli’s Rosato boasts an orangish pink color and peach, Meyer lemon aromas with a saline note. In the mouth, the wine is lean and crisp with peach, citrus flavors that linger on the tongue. Pair it with grilled halibut or sushi. Innkeeper Antonio Garofoli, started making wines in 1871 to serve Christian Pilgrims visiting the Basilica della Santa Casa in the town of Loreto in the Marche region of Italy. In the early 1900s, his son, Gioacchino, created a winery and today, members of the fourth generation, brothers Carlo and Gianfranco Garofoli and their children run the winery. They specialize in Trebbiano and Montepulciano grapes with a smaller amount of Sangiovese and Trebbiano Toscano. The Piancarda vineyard is where they grow their best Montepulciano grapes, some destined for their Rosso Cònero DOC, and others specially grown for the Rosato.
90
SEPTEMBER 2020
Garofoli “Podium” Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore DOC 2011
The color on the 2011 Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Podium stands out before anything else, showing a brilliant golden straw laced with green hues. The bouquet follows suit, with an extroverted display of honeyed yellow flowers, tropical citrus, mango and cream. There’s the slight twang of heat toward the close with a hint of hazelnut that lingers long. While I’m craving a bit more energy here, it’s hard to deny the seductive nature of the warm 2011 vintage.
94
OCTOBER 2021
Garofoli “Podium” Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore DOC 2019
At each tilt of the glass, the 2019 Podium reveals something new. Initially showing gingery spice, white smoke and yellow flower notes, it evolves into sour melon, young mango and wet stone aromas. Finally, it turns flinty, with crushed apples and raw almonds. The silky textures are almost glycerol-like, even though it is seemingly weightless in feel. It hovers above the senses while being propelled by vibrant acidity and saturating mineral tones, as ripe orchard fruits and inner florals cascade across the palate. It leaves you with an achingly youthful impression, the combination of structure and lingering notes of bitter grapefruit rind and granny smith apples. 2019 Podium is a classic in the making; and while it can be enjoyed today, the best is yet to come.
89
OCTOBER 2021
Garofoli “Serra del Conte” Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico DOC 2020
More savory than sweet and packed-full of crushed stone mineral tones and crisp green apple, the 2020 Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Serra del Conte makes itself known. While pleasantly ripe in style and soothing on the palate, this impresses more with its core of bright acidity that keeps the expression incredibly fresh and lifted. Hints of raw almond and orchard fruits linger long, as the cheeks pucker through the mouthwatering finale. I love the contrast of tension and ripeness here that makes the 2020 very easy to like.
93+
NOVEMBER 2022
Garofoli “Podium” Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore DOC 2020
The 2020 Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Podium is youthfully inward and coy at first, with a dusty florality and hints of cardamom in the glass. Swirling unlocks nuances of sage and rosemary, ginger and hints of smoky cracked stones, yet its fruit, leaning toward apricot, is still quite shy. Today, this impresses more on the palate, deeply savory and mineral in style, with a herbal twang and sour melon which place it firmly into the green fruit spectrum, all brilliantly offset by a saturating salty sensation. The palate is left reeling with spicy tension; the 2020 finishes structured, leaving the cheeks puckered and the mouth watering thanks to a late-arriving bump of zesty acidity. This will take some time to show its best, but it will be time well spent.
88
JUNE 2021
Garofoli “Kómaros” Montepulciano Rosato Marche IGT 2020
The 2020 Rosato Komaros is sweetly scented and floral, with a hint of undergrowth that grounds it firmly to the earth. Its textures are soft, offset by nervous acidity, sour citrus and minerals that create an expression of salty tension. This finishes crisp and clean. The Komaros is a no-frills Montepulciano Rosato that is sure to refresh through the summer months.
91
OCTOBER 2021
Garofoli “Grosso Agontano” Cònero Riserva DOCG 2018
Dusty violets, roses, incense wild herbs and wet stone lift up to form a perfumed display as the 2018 Conero Riserva Grosso Agontano blossoms in the glass. The Agontano is silky and refined, contrasting ripe red berries and sweet spice with saline-mineral tones and brisk acidity. This leaves the palate with a coating of fine tannins, yet it remains energetic, savory and almost salty in character, with a hint of black licorice that lingers long. The 2018 Agontano will only require minimal cellaring to show well, and, although quite balanced and pretty, it should be enjoyed sooner rather than later.
91+
APRIL 2020
Garofoli “Podium” Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore DOC 2016
The Garofoli 2016 Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore Podium sees fruit from an important single vineyard that has been fermented separately since this wine was first made in 1991. With those years of experience under their belts, the winemaking team has successfully harnessed the primary freshness and purity of the Verdicchio grape. This is especially evident in a classic vintage such as 2016. Aromas of citrus, pear, saffron and crushed aniseed rise delicately from the bouquet. Some 45,000 bottles were made.
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