The 2021 Extra Brut Col Credas Rive di Farra di Soligo is more of a whisper than a shout, as nuances of sweet melon and wildflowers give way to cracked slate and gingery spice. This is savory and mineral in style, caressing the palate with silken bubbles, as citrus-tinged orchard fruits are complemented by a salty flourish that evolves toward the close. The Col Credas finishes potent and with remarkable length, leaving a lemon-rind-like concentration, even as the mouth is left watering for another sip.

This bottle-fermented Prosecco has a lightly cloudy appearance and delicate scents of lemon and bread crust. Tart at first, it gains flavors of raw oatmeal, almond and lemon curd. Fully dry yet with a rich texture and deep savory tones, it’s an elegant partner for seafood or light poultry dishes, and an excellent value for a wine at this level of complexity.

BEST BUY! The Adami family purchased this vineyard in 1920 and some of the vines have now reached 100 years of age. Asciutto is an old local term meaning "dry;' in the sparkling-wine sense, and the wine carries up to 20 grams of resid­ual sugar per liter, sweetness that amplifies flavors of lemon curd, mango, white peach and golden apple. Lemony acidity balances the fruit, and a cool streak of salinity bright­ens the finish.

The NV Brut Prosecco Garbel mixes savory and sweet with a bouquet of crushed rocks and dusty dried flowers complementing hints of green melon. This is silky in feel without a hard edge in sight, as juicy acidity enlivens its candied citrus fruits. The Garbel takes on a tropical flair through the finale, mixing hints of kiwi with vivid young mango. The final takeaway is how remarkably fresh and clean it leaves the palate. This is a total pleasure to taste.

The NV Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore Bosco di Gica punches well above its price point, boasting an intensely smoky and mineral expression on the nose that pulls you close to the glass. Beneath, I’m finding notes of pear and sweet herbal tones. It’s soothing and creamy yet balanced by brisk acids, as ripe orchard fruits satiate the senses, leaving a salty twang that resonates through the finale. Wow. This is a pleasure to taste. This was bottled in September of 2020.

From Serralunga, the 2020 Barolo Lazzarito displays more sapidity on opening, with aromas of fresh sage, balsamic herbs, preserved strawberries, and tea leaf. Medium-bodied, it is more structured, with broad shoulders, ripe tannins, and a more grounding sensibility without being heavy. It shows more savory richness, although is light on its feet. Drink 2026-2046.

So much crushed-stone character here with citrus and black-cherry aromas. Medium-bodied with iodine and oyster-shell undertones to the blue fruit. Lemon rind at the end. Drink or hold.

The 2019 Prosecco Valdobbiadene Superiore Rive di Colbertaldo Asciutto Vigneto Giardino displays musky peaches and pears backed by dusty dried florals and lemon zests. It’s a round, pliant and jovial expression, balancing ripe orchard fruits and sweet spice against vibrant acids. Hints of candied ginger linger through the mouthwatering finale. With just a touch of residual sugar, the Vigneto Giardino comes across as wonderfully balanced and fully satisfying. This was bottled in September of 2020.