The 2021 Rosato Susumaniello Askos is understated and dusty in character, yet with an exotic spiciness that keeps me coming back to the glass. It washes across that palate with glycerol-like textures, while delivering ripe green melon and sweet inner herbal tones. While a bit short, the Askos succeeds in leaving the senses completely refreshed and aching for another sip.

Delicately floral and finessed, the 2020 Soave Classico I Palchi Foscarino Grande Cuvée slowly blossoms in the glass. Coaxing adds volume and depth as hints of lemon oil and white smoke give way to flowery underbrush and sweet spice. This washes across the palate with pure elegance, silky and refined, with an attractive sweetness and juicy acidity that perfectly contrasts its mineral-tinged orchard fruits. Pretty inner florals mingle with a twang of lime and liquid rock as the 2020 finishes remarkably long and perfumed; what a beauty. This vintage of Foscarino Grande Cuvée was matured all in thirty-five-hectoliter casks.

The 2019 Carmignano Villa di Capezzana is youthfully poised with dusty rose, dried black cherries and a burnt orange zest forming its bouquet. This washes across the palate with silky textures and ripe red fruits, gaining tension through a mix of saline-tinged acidity and sour citrus notes. Its tannins come on strong through the finale, coupled with a saturation of primary concentration and mineral tones as petty inner florals slowly fade. The 2019 is packed full of potential but will require patience.

The 2019 Barolo Brunate is a powerhouse. Black cherry, plum, spice, lavender, mocha, gravel and scorched earth all build as this virile, potent Barolo struts its stuff. The Brunate is another super-impressive wine in this range. To be perfectly honest, the Brunate has never been one of my favorite wines here, but the 2019 is undeniably great. Perhaps the combination of parcels Vietti has today explains the multi-dimensional vibrancy that comes through. This is simply magnificent.

An explosion of flavors on the nose and palate; dark forest fruits, dry hay, strawberries with cream, smoke and spice. Great Complexity and Intensity.

Vietti has the enormous advantage of 10 MGA sites at its disposition for blending purposes (and for making single-vineyard wines). This allows them to select the fruit they want to best express any one vintage. The 2018 Barolo Castiglione draws upon those 10 sites (including the recent additions of Mosconi, Ginestra, Bricco Ravera and Briccolina) to make what is ultimately its best-selling wine (with 35,000 bottles released). This classic rendition is tonic and clean with varietal tones of wild berry, rose and rusty nail.

BEST 50 WINES 2022

Psst, here’s a secret. Friuli has some of the most expressive Sauvignon Blanc on the planet. There was a point in this region’s history where “international” varieties were more prominent than their native grapes. And while they did the work to bring those back, Friulian winemakers took varieties like Sauvignon Blanc (Merlot, Cabernet Franc) and coaxed a new kind of balance out of them. Some of the best of this grape comes from here, like this beautiful example from Russiz (Roo-seez). Bright and mineral-driven with minimal fruit, this wine is about texture. The palate is a study in balance with excellent acidity and just the right grip. It is very Friulian, and you may have a hard time sharing.

WINE SPECTATOR TOP 100 #63 

A lively, medium- to full-bodied red, with rich hints of melted licorice and espresso layered with aromas and flavors of blackberry tart, dried mint and olive tapenade. Well-knit, with a fine frame of chalky tannins. Drink now through 2025. 7,500 cases made, 2,500 cases imported.