Rose petals and hibiscus are followed by graphite and flint and then finally strawberries and cranberries on the nose that come out again on the palate, combining with more stony, metallic notes and vibrant acid.

The 2020 Langhe Nebbiolo Perbacco is another terrific entry-level wine from Vietti. In this vintage, the Perbacco is especially fine. Sweet dried cherry, herbs, mint, crushed flowers, anise and orange peel grace this striking, alluring Nebbiolo. There's tons of depth and sheer pedigree, things that have not always been present in recent editions. For years, Perbacco was a very serious wine - some might say almost too serious - for its peer group. Then Vietti pivoted to a simpler style. With the 2020, Perbacco seems to once again be a wine that overdelivers, big time. Quite frankly, the 2020 Perbacco is more satisfying than many Barbarescos and Barolos I tasted this year.

This riserva shows dense aromas and flavors of brandy-soaked black cherries, clove, cinnamon and tobacco. It’s firm in feel, with smooth, polished tannins and tense acidity to lend a solid structure for the rich berry and heady spice flavors to spread out. 

It’s hard to pull away from the 2018 Pinot Noir Krafuss, as a deep and vivid blend of cherry pits, mint, pine shavings, chalk dust and smoke swirl up from the glass. Just as its bouquet would suggest, this is pure, energetic and wholly satisfying on the palate, with a sweet and sour mix of wild berries giving way to inner violet and lavender tones, while coming across as both creamy but also ethereal. A bit more depth might take the 2018 to the next level, but that’s just splitting hairs. It finishes lightly-structured and refined with nuances of tangerine and pomegranates that linger on and on. This is some stunning juice.

Sliced apple, citrus fruit and white flower undertones. Medium-bodied, fresh and clean on the palate. Straightforward and fruity with a vivid finish. Drink now.

BEST 50 WINES 2022

Psst, here’s a secret. Friuli has some of the most expressive Sauvignon Blanc on the planet. There was a point in this region’s history where “international” varieties were more prominent than their native grapes. And while they did the work to bring those back, Friulian winemakers took varieties like Sauvignon Blanc (Merlot, Cabernet Franc) and coaxed a new kind of balance out of them. Some of the best of this grape comes from here, like this beautiful example from Russiz (Roo-seez). Bright and mineral-driven with minimal fruit, this wine is about texture. The palate is a study in balance with excellent acidity and just the right grip. It is very Friulian, and you may have a hard time sharing.

Bright and focused, offering cherry, raspberry, rose hip, mushroom, iron and tobacco aromas and flavors.  Pure and expressive, with fine harmony, an elegant frame and a lingering aftertaste.  Gains support from a firm structure.  Best from 2025 through 2042.

The 2019 Barolo Monvigliero is stunning. What a wine. Rich, heady and explosive, the 2019 is a gorgeous, spherical Barolo that dazzles right out of the gate. Aromatically broad and expansive, the 2019 fleshes out beautifully in the glass. Bright red-toned fruit, orange zest, mint, spice and bright saline notes saturate the palate on the back end. The 2019 is a total stunner, even in this stage of youthful austerity. It comes across as a bit rustic compared to the 2018, but the final verdict on that won't be evident for at least a number of years. This is the first vintage that includes a second parcel in Monvigliero. In the cellar, one lot saw submerged cap maceration, the other did not.