The 2018 Chardonnay Lowengang captivates with its understated yet deeply layered bouquet, as sweet smoke blows off to reveal ripe peaches complemented by a mix of curry leaves and fresh vanilla bean. This is silky and elegant in texture, yet not weighty in feel, as contrasting notes of lemon oil and granny smith apple give way to an enriching air of confectionary custards. It leaves a concentration of tart orchard fruits and salty minerals to linger, while finishing remarkably long, but also fresh. There is simply so much going on in this glass and only more to come through medium-term cellaring. The integration of oak is spot-on. This is Italian Chardonnay done right.

A translucent ruby, the 2019 Barbaresco Roncaglie Masseria is beautiful and elegant in its perfume, with rosehip, rhubarb, and pomegranate. It is medium-bodied and a little restrained at the moment, but it has fine, present tannins and notes of sandy earth, cranberry, dried roses, and saline. Allow it another year in bottle and drink over the coming 10-15 years.

Sweet berries, meat and grilled citrus on the nose. Some crushed cement, too. Medium body, bright acidity, light tannins and a juicy finish. Very minerally and citrusy. From organically grown, native Tuscan grapes. Drink now.

Coming from La Morra, a more fruit-forward tone can be found in the licorice spice and depth of the 2019 Barolo Cerequio, which offers slightly darker fruit, ripe berries, and peppercorn. This was the second vintage produced and is more approachable now for the vintage. It is a joyful wine though it still has ripe structure. Drink 2024-2044.

Showing dark plum, ripe fruit, charred meat and scorched earth, the Tenuta Sallier de la Tour 2018 Monreale Syrah La Monaca is a perfect match of grape and territory. Syrah loves a hot climate, and Sicily loves Syrah. This is a robust and powerful expression of the grape that has absorbed much of the Sicilian sun, yet it remains elegantly mid-weight and contained throughout. This would be great with some grilled lamb sausage.

WINE SPECTATOR TOP 100 #63 

A lively, medium- to full-bodied red, with rich hints of melted licorice and espresso layered with aromas and flavors of blackberry tart, dried mint and olive tapenade. Well-knit, with a fine frame of chalky tannins. Drink now through 2025. 7,500 cases made, 2,500 cases imported.

This is a very fruit-forward syrah with crushed blackberry and raspberry and hints of cloves. Medium body with firm, fine tannins and a spicy, lightly meaty aftertaste. Drink or hold.

A nose of wild strawberries and sour cherries has hints of graphite and crushed rocks and then tanned leather and grilled meat. The palate is bright and bouncy with strawberry-cherry flavor, a squeeze of blood orange and a salty kick.