Loaded with personality, this opens with aromas of forest floor, new leather, camphor and ripe black-skinned fruit. The palate boasts an earthy elegance reminiscent of top Burgundies, showcasing ripe black cherry, crushed raspberry, truffle, star anise and a hint of salted game. Firm, fine-grained tannins provide support while fresh acidity keeps it balanced. Drink 2022–2036.

The 2018 Vermentino di Gallura Superiore Sciala pulls you close with a bouquet that mixes ripe apple and pear with earthy minerals and hints of savory spice. It’s deeply textural yet spry, contrasting zesty acids and citrus notes with ripe orchard fruits. This is wonderfully balanced yet youthfully dense as it slowly melts away from the senses, leaving a coating of crunchy saline-minerality.

The 2019 Rosso is very easy to like with its vibrant display of citrus-tinged sweet wild berries and violets. It’s soft in feel with juicy acids that usher in a balancing mix of tart red and black fruits. Energy remains high as this tapers off spicy with a hint of lime and green apple, which may seem out of place in a Rosso yet works well here. This is a blend of 60% Carignano, 30% Cannonau and 10% Muristellu (Bovale Sardo).

Luca Currado makes this Barbaresco with fruit from vineyards in Treiso and Neive. Its cherry and raspberry flavors exhibit the dense concentration typical of the hot and dry 2017 vintage, yet the wine is lifted by fresh scents of rose petal and vibrant, finely woven acidity. Already beautifully integrated, the taut tannins and long finish indicate plenty of aging potential.

The 2016 Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Riserva Bellovedere is dark yet elegant, with an inviting bouquet of blackberries, crushed violets, exotic spice and hints of camphor. This is silky in texture with a savory, almost-salty display of wild berries and minerals, all balanced by brisk acids. You can hardly feel its fine-grained tannins settling in until the very end, as the palate aches under the Bellovedere’s youthful structure, with echoes of licorice and black fruits lingering long. That said, the balance here is on point, and all the 2016 needs is a few more years of cellaring to really shine.

Spicy, fresh and floral, the 2020 Vermentino di Gallura Limizzani lifts up effortlessly from the glass. This perfumed effort displays sour melon, ginger and honeysuckle. It’s silky and pliant, with a noticeable inner sweetness contrasted by salty minerals and tart orchard fruits. The cheeks pucker with residual tension as this tapers off fresh to a hint of tropical citrus.

Spicy, perfumed and loaded with character, the 2019 Sauvignon lifts up with a mix of crushed green apples, geraniums and savory spice. The textures are silky and refined, with a pure display of ripe orchard fruits and zesty citrus that contrasts between sweet and sour. Pretty inner florals, notes of chamomile, kiwi and peach resonate throughout the wonderful long finale.

This is very chewy and powerful with lots of velvety tannins that are firm and intense. It’s full and flavorful with strawberries and tar. Bark undertones. Flavorful finish. Needs time to soften. Try after 2024.