The 2023 Valdobbiadene Vigneto Giardino Rive di Colbertaldo Asciutto is delicate yet remarkably pretty, wafting up with a cascade of floral perfumes and hints of sweet spice, peach sorbet and nectarine. It floods the palate with a creamy bead of fine bubbles and ripe orchard fruits, all guided by brilliant acidity as a nuance of candied citrus informs the close. Notes of green apple, melon and a sensation of liquid stone appear as the 2023 finishes with amazing length and complexity. This is fantastic.

Mocha meets dried black cherries, plums and minty herbs as the 2020 Carmignano Riserva Trefiano slowly evolves in the glass. This is silky smooth and cool-toned in feel, with a sour citrus tinge elevating ripe wild berry fruits as hints of sage embellish the close. It finishes pleasantly bitter and incredibly long, leaving crystalline tannins to pierce the palate as echoes of licorice and minerals slowly taper off. This shows the warmth of the vintage, but does so with impeccable balance.

A damp, cool stoniness defines the nose, which has aromas of blackberries, soil, herbs, crushed rock and pepper. The palate is peppery and earthy, but continuing notes of tart berries provide a cooling balance, creating a delightfully unexpected expression of Montepulciano d'Abruzzo.

Equal parts fruity and balsamic, this red reveals cherry, cranberry and rose hip notes alongside eucalyptus, juniper and cedar flavors. Taut and well-marked by a line of dusty tannins gracing the finish. Classy and long. Best from 2028 through 2045.

A very pretty, perfumed, young Etna rosso with plenty of fresh flowers, focus and finesse. Medium-bodied, it has fine tannins and a long, bright finish. Best ever? Drink now or hold.

The 2019 Orleto, 100% Cabernet Franc, is a new wine from Aia Vecchia. Dense and plush to the core, the 2019 is packed with blackberry, gravel, incense, licorice, espresso and sweet spice. There’s plenty of depth, that much is sure. It would be nice to see more varietal expression, as Franc can be magical on the Tuscan coast. In this tasting, the 2019 comes across as a bit hot.

A little more robust and richer on the finish, the Tenute Cisa Asinari dei Marchesi di Gresy 2020 Barbaresco Riserva Gaiun Martinenga offers aromas of cooked cherry and plum. This wine offers a darker fruit profile compared to the others, and it also shows greater structural support. There is a firm, mineral note of iron or rust that should dissolve beautifully as this wine continues its bottle aging. Production is 8,000 bottles.

Built to age, with concentrated flavors and lots of lip-smacking tannins, with medium weight and good acidity. It should be decanted if opened over the next few years or, if you like to see how a wine develops short term, take some time enjoying a glass or two to taste it as it develops in real time.