Aromas of red fruit, strawberries, raspberries, dried herbs, violets and crushed stones. The palate is juicy and full-bodied with fine-grained tannins that turn chewy toward the finish but balance the core of pretty fruit. Better from 2027.

A damp, cool stoniness defines the nose, which has aromas of blackberries, soil, herbs, crushed rock and pepper. The palate is peppery and earthy, but continuing notes of tart berries provide a cooling balance, creating a delightfully unexpected expression of Montepulciano d'Abruzzo.

Crushed blackberry, sage, citrus zest and stone dust aromas create an enticing bouquet as the expressive 2022 Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Docheio blossoms in the glass. This is juicy to the core, with sweet liquid lavender tones and masses of ripe black cherry that flow across a stream of tantalizing acidity. It leaves a gentle concentration of primary fruit and violet inner florals that linger on and on. The amphora-aged 2022 Docheio is a pure and fresh Montepulciano that will win a lot of hearts.

Always a classical wine, the Tenute Cisa Asinari dei Marchesi di Gresy 2021 Barbaresco Martinenga brings us the sharpness and power of an epic vintage. This wine has a medium-dark luminous color and is light on its feet. The aromas are bright and lively with fresh berry and cassis. The oak contouring is delicate, and the wine benefits structurally from healthy skins, grapes and pulp. There is a delightful hint of Nebbiolo sweetness on the close. This is a 24,000-bottle release.

The 2010 Alta Langa Riserva Zero 140 Pas Dosé is airy and fresh with a bouquet of white flowers, crushed almonds, incense and vanilla-laced peaches. It’s elegant in feel, with a silken wave of fine bubbles and ripe orchard fruits that swirl across a stream of brilliant acidity. The 2010 remains remarkably fresh despite its age, leaving hints of tropical citrus and sweet inner florals to linger over a saline mineral saturation. Wow.

The 2023 Soave Classico Foscarino is youthfully coy, with a delicate blend of lime zest, sweet sage, crushed green apples and a subtle whiff of spice. It possesses a core of zesty acidity and depths of salty minerals, as well as a silken wave of nectarine and citrus that soothes the senses. The 2023 reverberates with tension, crisp and long, leaving a crunchy sensation and the palate completely reset for another salty sip.

Tenuta Tascante does a great job with its single-contrada wines from Etna and succeeds at presenting the subtle differences in the character of each vineyard site. The 2020 Etna Rosso Contrada Pianodario (from Randazzo) comes from a relatively new parcel that was planted in 2010. The wine opens to a light garnet color and showcases aromas of blue flower, redcurrant and flinty stone or ash. It sees 12 months in Slavonian oak casks, and the luminous transparency of the fruit shines bright in this accessible vintage. Contrada Pianodario does not have the enhanced complexity or depth of Sciaranuova or Rampante, but I prefer this bottle for its elegant freshness and tightness.

Mocha meets dried black cherries, plums and minty herbs as the 2020 Carmignano Riserva Trefiano slowly evolves in the glass. This is silky smooth and cool-toned in feel, with a sour citrus tinge elevating ripe wild berry fruits as hints of sage embellish the close. It finishes pleasantly bitter and incredibly long, leaving crystalline tannins to pierce the palate as echoes of licorice and minerals slowly taper off. This shows the warmth of the vintage, but does so with impeccable balance.