The 2017 Barolo Brunate is a powerful, brooding wine. Huge dark fruit, leather, spice, menthol and dried herbs all build in a potent Barolo that is enshrouded by tannins. The 2017 is going to need quite a bit of time in the cellar. Today, it is very much a brooding powerhouse. Dark wild cherry, licorice, tar, menthol and spice take shape in the glass, but the 2017 is clearly an infant, and an unruly one at that.

This red evokes pure cherry and black pepper flavors, with hints of tar, earth and tobacco on a lightweight frame. It's more savory than fruity at this stage, with latent ripeness. Dense, chalky tannins rim the finish, with fine balanceand length overall. Best from 2023 through 2038. —B.S.

The 2017 Barolo Rocche di Castiglione shows all the signatures of this site, all turned up to the maximum. I am not sure I have ever tasted a Vietti Castiglione with this much heft. Super-ripe dark red fruit, rose petal, mocha, dried herbs and menthol all build in an ample, resonant Barolo. Readers should be prepared to cellar the 2017 for the next handful of years, perhaps longer. A whole range of floral and savory notes punctuates the explosive finish.

The Badia a Coltibuono 2016 Chianti Classico Riserva Cultus Boni is an organic wine from one of the most consistent and productive estates in Gaiole in Chianti. The wine is grounded in fresh primary fruit with wild cherry, blackberry and some faint dustings of exotic spice, toasted nut, crushed stone and dried flowers. You also get hints of lavender, sage and dried mint. Cultus Boni is one of the most terroir-driven wines of this subzone (and the price point is excellent).

Lively acidity and tangy salinity drive this creamy, light-bodied white, whose flavors of pineapple, apricot and lemon thyme show a zesty orange peel edge, followed by a lingering finish. Drink Now. 

Made with organic fruit, the 2016 Carmignano Villa di Capezzana is an 80/20 blend of Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon. The wine is open and accessible, showing a graceful and pure quality of fruit with dark cherry, blackberry, spice, tar and tobacco. The mouthfeel is streamlined and compact, but what this wine lacks in power it makes up for in elegance. This sample from 2016 was sent along with a bottle from 2010 so that I could track its impressive bottle evolution. In fact, I widened my suggested drinking window after tasting that older bottle.

A bright, pure version, boasting raspberry, black cherry and blackberry flavors married to a fluid profile. The structure is present, yet both the lively acidity and fine-grained tannins are in harmony. The focus is really on the fruit here, with accents of graphite, earth, tobacco and underbrush. Best from 2023 through 2045.

Loaded with personality, this opens with aromas of forest floor, new leather, camphor and ripe black-skinned fruit. The palate boasts an earthy elegance reminiscent of top Burgundies, showcasing ripe black cherry, crushed raspberry, truffle, star anise and a hint of salted game. Firm, fine-grained tannins provide support while fresh acidity keeps it balanced. Drink 2022–2036.