Wow. What glorious aromas of pure fruit with black cherries and currants. Really floral, too. Orange peel and tangerines. Full-bodied with really focused, polished tannins that coat your mouth, yet remain fine and beautiful. Goes on for minutes. Drinkable now, but much better in 2023 when it will have softened and come together.

A release of 8,760 bottles, the Vietti 2017 Barolo Lazzarito draws its fruit from Serralunga d'Alba and reveals a luminous garnet color. Compared to some of the others in this portfolio, the wine takes a little longer to open and express itself. It does, however, unfold to dark cherry, redcurrant, grilled herb, iron ore and candied orange peel. You need to give your glass a few extra vigorous swirls. Those rusty mineral notes build in intensity and drive the wine's medium-long finish.

Spicy, fresh and floral, the 2020 Vermentino di Gallura Limizzani lifts up effortlessly from the glass. This perfumed effort displays sour melon, ginger and honeysuckle. It’s silky and pliant, with a noticeable inner sweetness contrasted by salty minerals and tart orchard fruits. The cheeks pucker with residual tension as this tapers off fresh to a hint of tropical citrus.

Dusty violets, roses, incense wild herbs and wet stone lift up to form a perfumed display as the 2018 Conero Riserva Grosso Agontano blossoms in the glass. The Agontano is silky and refined, contrasting ripe red berries and sweet spice with saline-mineral tones and brisk acidity. This leaves the palate with a coating of fine tannins, yet it remains energetic, savory and almost salty in character, with a hint of black licorice that lingers long. The 2018 Agontano will only require minimal cellaring to show well, and, although quite balanced and pretty, it should be enjoyed sooner rather than later.

At each tilt of the glass, the 2019 Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Podium reveals something new. At first, it shows gingery spice, white smoke and yellow flower notes, then it evolves into sour melon, young mango and wet stone aromas. Finally, it turns flinty, with crushed apples and raw almonds. The silky textures are almost glycerol-like, even though it is seemingly weightless in feel. It hovers above the senses while being propelled by vibrant acidity and saturating mineral tones, as ripe orchard fruits and inner florals cascade across the palate. It leaves you with an achingly youthful impression, the combination of structure and lingering notes of bitter grapefruit rind and granny smith apples. The 2019 Podium is a classic in the making; and while it can be enjoyed today, the best is yet to come.

Though ripe and lush, this is also dense, with pointed tannins giving a physical sensation and lifting the cherry, strawberry and floral flavors. Finds a nice youthful equilibrium in the end, where mouthwatering acidity roams. Best from 2023 through 2038.