Aromas of cedar, toasted oak, violet and camphor come to the forefront on this savory red. On the concentrated but elegant palate, velvety tannins envelop ripe Morello cherry, fruitcake and licorice. Fresh acidity keeps it bright. Drink through 2026.

Cerretalto is bottled separately in selected vintages only. It is given an additional year of ageing and is typically still patently austere when released. While the 2015 was almost uncharacteristically fleshy, 2016 is a return to Cerretalto’s sinewy personality. It opens gradually with distinct flint, creosote and smoke-infused wild black currants and thyme. The palate is powerful without being weighty, with chiselled tannins that are rigid but not hard-edged. A concentrated core of black salted liquorice, black raspberry and iron is pierced by tangy acidity. Ultimately an elegant wine, this will need time to express all its nuance.Drinking Window 2025 - 2045

The 2017 Ghiaie della Furba opens to a bouquet of minty herbs, camphor and smoke before deepening further to display dusty red currant and spice box. This is velvety and fleshy in feel, with stimulating acidity that enlivens its spicy black fruit and building mineral tones. It tapers off with persistence, power and grippy tannin, the perfect mix for a long evolution. The Ghiaie della Furba is a blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Syrah and 20% Merlot that refines in barrique, half new and half second pass. It's important to note that production was down by 40% in 2017 due to frost.

This wine shows its MGA name "Roncaglie" on the front label for the first time. That's because Vietti recently acquired additional land in this cru site. The total holdings now span two hectares of vines. The 2018 Barbaresco Roncaglie Masseria is made as if it were a Barolo (instead of a Barbaresco) and is released one year after its peers. It shows tart fruit and dried cranberry with some mild spice and tarry smoke from two years in large oak casks. Exactly 5,026 bottles were made.

The 2021 Rosato Etna Tefra is remarkably pretty, with sweet smoke and melon complemented by hints of crushed almond and candied citrus. While silky in feel, a burst of brilliant acidity and salty mineral tones add a reverberation of tension, as orchard fruits and inner florals settle in toward the close. There’s a richness that lasts through the finale, seldom found in a Rosato, as the Tefra tapers off with a saline flourish that keeps the mouth watering for more. This is the magic of Nerello Mascalese Rosato.

There’s something intriguing, alluringly dark, earthy – animal, even – yet floral and packed full of rich black fruits and exotic spices that defines the 2016 Brunello di Montalcino Cerretalto. This impresses with its cool-toned dark berries and minerals, complemented by bright acidity and sweet inner herbal tones. It’s not yet ready to reveal all of its charms, though it drops subtle hints each step of the way. A bitter twang keeps the expression lively and fresh, while grippy tannins saturate deeply and leave the palate aching with youthful tension, as notes of licorice, clove and a hint of ginger linger. What a wine!

Broad and saturated with cherry, black currant and plum flavors, this red is expansive and yet well defined. The ripe fruit is offset by nervous tannins, leaving a resonant, energetic feel on the lengthy finish. Eucalyptus, iron and tobacco notes add detail. Best from 2025 through 2047. 642 cases made, 193 cases imported.

This is one of my all-time favorite Brunellos, and although personal tastes are fluid and may change from time to time, there is something timeless and solid about this wine. It's like a touchstone. The Casanova di Neri 2017 Brunello di Montalcino Tenuta Nuova is graced with a similar interlude of elegant rose or crushed flower that we saw in the annata wine. It appears more prominently here, and with more shape and focused intensity. Make no mistake, Giacomo Neri builds wines for pleasure and sensual impact, and this wine (helped by a hot growing season and 15% alcohol) ticks all those boxes. But it also shows floral elegance and sour cherry freshness that defies our expectations of the vintage.