TOP 50 WINES OF 2022  #3 

Psst, here’s a secret. Friuli has some of the most expressive Sauvignon Blanc on the planet. The northeastern Italian DOC of Collio Goriziano in Friuli-Venezia Giulia has historically been known for Pinot Grigios and Friulanos (also known as Sauvignon Vert), but it has more recently received overdue recognition for its stellar Sauvignon Blanc wines. One sip of Russiz Superiore’s Sauvignon Collio, and you’ll understand why. Its earthy, slightly savory palate offers a nice alternative to the New Zealand-style, pyrazine-forward Savvy B Americans are familiar with, offering highly concentrated notes of bright tomato and aromatic basil. With a mineral-rich texture, it’s the perfect match for a caprese salad with lots of flaky sea salt. The palate is a study in balance with excellent acidity and just the right grip.

The super-flinty nose with a note of grilled lemon pulls you into this light and creamy dry pinot blanc that plows its own furrow. Quite an austere balance, due to the pronounced tannins, then wild-herb character at the very dry finish. Only 11.5% alcohol! From biodynamically grown grapes with Demeter certification. Drink or hold.

The Vietti 2020 Colli Tortonesi Timorasso Derthona (aged in a combination of oak and ceramic tile-lined cement) is a wine of nice tension and ample texture. These contrasting characteristics shape the wine, which is horizontal in approach with broad appeal. The bouquet delivers tones of orchard fruit, saffron, honey and crushed stone. This medium-bodied wine will evolve slowly over the next 10 years, transitioning to more mineral, beeswax and dried fruit aromas. Production is 9,000 bottles.

Wow. Incredible purity and transparency with cherries, bark, mushroom, flower and slate/stone on the nose. Full-bodied yet agile and fresh with a fine tannin structure that runs the length of the wine and goes on forever. The polish, elegance and grace is breathtaking. Power with agility. A revelation for the 2016 vintage in Brunello. Drink in 2024 and onwards but wonderful to taste now.

The southeastern Italian region of Puglia is often thought of as one of the most important territories for rosato in the country. Several grapes are used to produce the various styles; this one from Masseria Li Veli is produced entirely from Negroamaro. Medium-deep orange in color, this offers delightful perfumes of orange peel, currant and orange roses. There is very good acidity, which helps preserve acidity and freshness and the finish is round and quite delicious. Enjoy this over the next 2-3 years.

Morello cherry and violet aromas take center stage on this savory sparkler. The dry, refined palate delivers juicy Morello cherry, blood orange, fennel seed and white pepper alongside a refined perlage and bright acidity.

The 2019 Barbaresco Masseria Roncaglie is the best Barbaresco I have ever tasted from Vietti. Bright, translucent and full of energy, the 2019 is stunning from the very first taste, and it was poured after all the Barolos in the range. Crushed flowers, sweet red berry fruit, cinnamon, mint and orange peel all grace this exquisite, mind-blowing Barbaresco. The 2019 is pure and total finesse. For many years, the Barbaresco has been the hidden gem in this lineup. I am not sure how much longer that will last. The 2019 is outrageously beautiful. Don't miss it!

The 2019 Rosso di Montalcino Giovanni Neri reaches Brunello-esque intensity and complexity. This vintage produced concentrated fruit, and you definitely feel the extra fruit weight on the palate. (I can't wait to taste the 2019 Brunellos, by the way.) The wine is very generous at this moment in time with rich, dark fruit, soft tannins and lingering mineral notes.