Aromas of red fruit, strawberries, raspberries, dried herbs, violets and crushed stones. The palate is juicy and full-bodied with fine-grained tannins that turn chewy toward the finish but balance the core of pretty fruit. Better from 2027.

A dense, solidly built version, whose core of cherry and raspberry fruit is accented by iron, wild herb and juniper notes. Focused by vibrant acidity and underlined with chalky tannins, this red is long and detailed on the finish. Best from 2027 through 2045.

Wild and exotic, the 2021 Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Docheio impresses with a vividly fresh blend of wilted violets and dusty rose, incense, lavender pastille and citrus-tinged blackberries. This is cool-toned and racy in style, with soft and enveloping textures and a sensation of liquid stone that paves the way for ripe red and blue fruits. Saline minerality adds a tactile edginess as the 2021 saturates the palate with licorice and spice, tapering off juicy in feel and lightly tannic. Wow, what a wine. The Docheio is a new wine from La Valentina; it's refined entirely in amphora with half of the bunches left intact and the other half destemmed.

The dusty and floral 2023 Susumaniello Askos offers a refined bouquet of crushed blackberries, incense and exotic spice. Silky and round, its core of tactile minerals adds form toward the close. The 2023 finishes structured and long, leaving a coating of fine tannins and a lingering resonance of polished wild berry fruit. This could use some time in the cellar to come fully into focus, but it shows the complexity that Susumaniello can deliver.

The 2020 Brunello di Montalcino Vecchie Vigne is tightly wound and inward, with an intense mix of savory herbs, cedar shavings, ground cloves and blood orange forming its bouquet. Velvety smooth and deep, yet surprisingly vibrant, it casts masses of spiced-cherry and wild berry fruits across the palate, complicated by a hint of sour citrus. The structure emerges through the finish, impossibly long and tannic, yet still fresh, leaving a tart blackberry tinge and violet inner florals. This mixes balance and power in a wildly attractive way.

Perfumed nose of lavender, plums and currants. Some tobacco. It’s full-bodied, creamy and fruity, with slightly rough, grainy tannins, but remains pure and approachable. From organically grown grapes. Drink or hold.

Lovely perfumes of flowers and rose stems to subtle red fruits and oranges follow through to a medium to full body. Tight, focused fruit and tannins lead to a crisp finish. Drink now.

Wine Spectator 37 Brunellos from Montalcino's 2020 Vintage

A dark, distinctive version that veers toward black currant and blackberry fruit, showing fine concentration and structure. Iron, earth, eucalyptus and Mediterranean scrub notes augment the fruit, delivering an anomaly for the vintage. Almost feels more like '19 than '20. Best from 2028 through 2045.