The oak-fermented and aged 2019 Chardonnay Löwengang shows citrusy freshness on one hand, with textured spice and vanilla on the other. This wine puts its primary fruit forward with intensity, but it also offers plenty of exciting complexity in a second wave of aromas that underline extreme care and precision in winemaking. Like the other bottles in this portfolio, this is an organic and biodynamic wine. Production is 40,000 bottles, and fruit is selected from the best parts of Löwengang in Magrè with sandy glacier soils at 230 to 330 meters in elevation.

The 2021 Rosso di Montalcino Giovanni Neri is the current vintage of this wine, which is punchy and bright with a vinous quality that underlines the wine's freshness and its youthful character. The bouquet is extremely clean and transparent, and you can peer through the red cherry fruit and raspberry to crushed stone and chalky dryness. It shows a beautiful color in the glass that matches the aromatic clarity offered to the nose. The only fly in the ointment is a high 15% alcohol content. 

A close-to-even blend of cabernet and carmenere, with an increasing percentage of merlot and franc. Violet lift. Green olive spread. Chili, spearmint, bitter chocolate and dense, boysenberry confiture. Yet the feel, while full-weighted, is immensely savoury. The oak, an enticing framework, melding effortlessly with the density of the wine and modern, prescient style. This has a strong Bordeaux feel to it, with an extra degree of polish and richness. Drink or hold.

Tenuta Scerscé coaxes from their vines something truly special. This wine, the Essenza, opens with aromas of fresh cherries, herbal tea, cola and wildflowers. The palate is plump with juicy red-fruit notes that are balanced by notes of dried herbs and fresh earth. Fine tannins and crisp acidity show that this wine will drink well for a long while. Drink now-2040.

Sweet berries, meat and grilled citrus on the nose. Some crushed cement, too. Medium body, bright acidity, light tannins and a juicy finish. Very minerally and citrusy. From organically grown, native Tuscan grapes. Drink now.

The 2019 Lagone is a soft, fruity Maremma red to drink now and over the next handful of years. A burst of sweet red berry fruit, cinnamon, rose petal and new leather lends energy to this tasty, mid-weight red. Best of all, the 2019 should be a terrific value.