This has aromas of waxed lemons, jasmine, white tea and apricot stones. Light to medium body with bright acidity and a waxy, lemony palate. Crisp and very fresh. Drink now.

The 2018 Pietradonice, a varietal Cabernet Sauvignon from the south-east of Montalcino, is dark as it grumbles up from the glass, showing dusty rose, currents, cherries and smoke. This is velvety in feel yet wonderfully lifted and fresh, steadily building in tannic heft yet packed full of graphite-like mineral-tinged black fruits and dark inner florals. A hint of sour citrus keeps you coming back for more even as the Pietradonice flexes its structural heft. Give the 2018 five to seven years before attempting to enjoy the full potential buried within.

The 2021 Collio Sauvignon from Russiz Superiore shows the dimension the region can produce in the variety. The wine has a great balance of fruit, herbs, and minerals — less racy and “grassy” than Sauvignon from New Zealand and more like some of those from France’s Loire Valley. Flavors of green apple, apricot, and lemon-lime are accented by touches of flinty minerality and herbs like sage and thyme. There’s a bit of creamy softness on the long finish, a reflection of aging on the leesand a small percentage of the grapes fermented in oak barrels. Aging takes place in stainless steel tanks. It is more expensive than many of the countless Sauvignons you’ll find from just about every corner of the wine world. But the price is offset by the fact that this is a singular Sauvignon Blanc that’s among the world’s best.

A refined, silky red marked by a mix of rose, strawberry, cherry, eucalyptus and white pepper aromas and flavors. Shows ample structure and fine intensity as this builds to a long, dusty, mineral-tinged finish. Harmonious, firm and fresh. Best from 2026 through 2042. From Italy.

Airy and crisply refreshing, the 2016 Zero wafts up with a bouquet of sweet smoke and pretty pear and sour melon nuances. It's elegant and soothing on the palate, with a burst of minerality up front that slowly gives way to green apple contrasting with candied ginger. Residual acids cleanse the senses while forcing them to water as this finishes long and nearly salty in character. The Zero does an excellent job of impressing with its savory character while urging the taster back to the glass for more. Well done.

Broad and saturated with cherry, black currant and plum flavors, this red is expansive and yet well defined. The ripe fruit is offset by nervous tannins, leaving a resonant, energetic feel on the lengthy finish. Eucalyptus, iron and tobacco notes add detail. Best from 2025 through 2047. 642 cases made, 193 cases imported.

Tenuta Nuova hails from Casanova di Neri’s Le Cetine vineyard in Montalcino’s south. With a full southern exposure from east to west, it is a sun soaked, Mediterranean expression of Brunello. The 2017 takes a bit of coaxing at first but then cherry bark, cinnamon, liquorice root and gardenia arise from the glass. Upfront, gritty tannins dissolve slowly into a fine dusty powder, revealing supple, round black currants. Citrussy acidity keeps this lively while dark chocolate and mint notes linger. Drinking Window 2023 – 2029

Deep purple color. The nose is delightfully spicy, with tobacco, black pepper and green herbs over a deep core of plum and tart currant fruit, with notes of fallen leaves and dried mushrooms. The palate sports crisp acidity and grippy tannins, and the balance is on point, build solidly but fresh and vibrant, with tangy currant and red plum fruit. The complexity is great, with these spiced tea, tar, black pepper, chewing tobacco and dried violets. This has a lot of depth, personality and age-worthiness packed in, and it’s a crazy good value for a Barolo – which is quite the rare treat. Give it a decant or a leave plenty for the second day, but this is delightful.