Spicy, perfumed and loaded with character, the 2019 Sauvignon lifts up with a mix of crushed green apples, geraniums and savory spice. The textures are silky and refined, with a pure display of ripe orchard fruits and zesty citrus that contrasts between sweet and sour. Pretty inner florals, notes of chamomile, kiwi and peach resonate throughout the wonderful long finale.

The Poliziano 2016 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Le Caggiole opens to a dark and sultry appearance, showing a rich and elegant side of the Sangiovese grape. There is a snappy or tart element to the fruit with sour cherry and black plum; however, the wine does not lack for ripeness. There is depth and rich concentration here, giving this wine a step up when it comes to a possible steak or meat roast dinner. The tannins (both the fruit and the oak tannins) are astringent, so give the wine a few more months of bottle aging.

The 2017 Barolo Ravera is a powerhouse. My impression is that the 2017 is going to develop into something truly special. It has all the energy that makes this site so distinctive, but with an extra kick of fruit density and a whole range of exotic aromatics that make for a truly drop-dead gorgeous wine. Bright red/purplish fruit, rose petal, chalk and white pepper build into a finish laced with searing intensity. This is such an impressive wine.

Aromas of ripe black-skinned fruit, menthol and French oak form the alluring nose. On the firm, full-bodied palate, tightly knit, close-grained tannins accompany ripe Marasca cherry, orange zest, roasted coffee bean and star anise. It's densely structured but also has a weightless vibrancy. Drink 2023–2029.

Loaded with personality, this opens with aromas of forest floor, new leather, camphor and ripe black-skinned fruit. The palate boasts an earthy elegance reminiscent of top Burgundies, showcasing ripe black cherry, crushed raspberry, truffle, star anise and a hint of salted game. Firm, fine-grained tannins provide support while fresh acidity keeps it balanced. Drink 2022–2036.

The NV Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore Dei Casel lifts up with poise and precision, displaying dusty dried flowers, young pear and hints of white smoke. It impresses with a lovely inner sweetness, balanced by zesty acids and hints of spice. Seamless is the word that comes to mind, as this travels across the palate with creamy textures; yet it then resolves into a classically dry expression through the finale. You’ll be hard-pressed to stop after just one glass. This was bottled in September of 2020.

Masses of purple-tinged peppery florals, crushed plums and smoky minerals lift up from the 2017 Cabernet Franc. It’s lean and focused in the mouth, coming across as salty and savory with tart wild berries that saturate all that they touch. That said, the 2017 maintains wonderful energy, even through its structured and almost-chewy finish. While this shows a bit of the warm vintage with its intense fruit and gruff tannin, it should still flesh out nicely and drink beautifully over the medium term.

This red evokes pure cherry and black pepper flavors, with hints of tar, earth and tobacco on a lightweight frame. It's more savory than fruity at this stage, with latent ripeness. Dense, chalky tannins rim the finish, with fine balanceand length overall. Best from 2023 through 2038. —B.S.