The 2017 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Riserva Bellovedere is massive with an oak-inspired burst of mocha mixed with mentholated herbs, cedar, black currants and exotic spice forming its bouquet. However, what impresses most here are the textures, supremely elegant and pure, yet also lifted, as the 2017 balances its rich dark fruits with brisk acids and mineral tones that add liveliness, but also depth. The tannins are fine but sweet, and in need of mellowing; this finishes incredibly long through the cocoa and cinnamon-tinged finale. The Bellovedere spends eighteen months in a combination of barriques and tonneaux, yet the integration is spot on. Give this sexy beast a few years in the cellar to soften its contours and integrate some oak.

BEST VALUES.  Rich and vibrant, this red evokes black cherry, plum, earth, iron and spice flavors. Nicely balanced, with dense, integrated tannins lining the finish. Drink now through 2026. 6,700 cases made, 4,800 cases imported.

$25 AND UNDER STEALS

Absolutely delicious and stunning for the price. Loads of cherry/blueberry fruit, plus a streak of spiciness, and terrific structure. Mouth-filling and long.

The Vietti 2020 Colli Tortonesi Timorasso Derthona (aged in a combination of oak and ceramic tile-lined cement) is a wine of nice tension and ample texture. These contrasting characteristics shape the wine, which is horizontal in approach with broad appeal. The bouquet delivers tones of orchard fruit, saffron, honey and crushed stone. This medium-bodied wine will evolve slowly over the next 10 years, transitioning to more mineral, beeswax and dried fruit aromas. Production is 9,000 bottles.

WINE & SPIRITS MAGAZINE 100 BEST FOR $20 OR LESS

Fresh floral scents lead into this wine's flavors of honeycrisp apple, yellow pear and white peach. It's wrapped in a satiny mousse and just enough sweetness (10 grams per liter) to amplify those juicy fruit tones. It's an elegant wine, perfect for a high-end by-the-glass program.

Snappy acidity creates a clean-cut frame for the creamy mix of poached apricot, chamomile, salty mineral and mandarin orange peel aromas and flavors in this well-meshed, light-on-its-feet white. Drink now through 2027. 1,100 cases made, 200 cases imported.

Tenuta Nuova hails from Casanova di Neri’s Le Cetine vineyard in Montalcino’s south. With a full southern exposure from east to west, it is a sun soaked, Mediterranean expression of Brunello. The 2017 takes a bit of coaxing at first but then cherry bark, cinnamon, liquorice root and gardenia arise from the glass. Upfront, gritty tannins dissolve slowly into a fine dusty powder, revealing supple, round black currants. Citrussy acidity keeps this lively while dark chocolate and mint notes linger. Drinking Window 2023 – 2029

The 2021 Sauvignon Collio from Russiz Superiore shows the dimension the region can produce in the variety. The wine has a great balance of fruit, herbs, and minerals — less racy and “grassy” than Sauvignon from New Zealand and more like some of those from France’s Loire Valley. Flavors of green apple, apricot, and lemon-lime are accented by touches of flinty mineralogy and herbs like sage and thyme. There’s a bit of creamy softness on the long finish, a reflection of aging on the lees and a small percentage of the grapes fermented in oak barrels. Aging takes place in stainless steel tanks. It is a highly versatile wine that can be enjoyed with lots of simple fish and shellfish dishes, roast chicken, and vegetable-based risottos and pastas. it’s more expensive than many of the countless Sauvignons you’ll find from just about every corner of the wine world. But the price is offset by the fact that this is a singular Sauvignon Blanc that’s among the world’s best.