This has aromas of wild raspberries, plums, almond blossom, sandalwood, clay and green olives on the nose. Medium-bodied with fine, creamy tannins. Supple and transparent. Very fine. Even better from 2024.

The 2018 Barolo Ravera is a wine of real depth and vertical structure. As always, the Ravera is a taut, nervy Barolo built on energy more than volume. Readers will have to be patient, as the Ravera is likely to require a number of years to be at its most expressive. Even in the early going, it is vibrant and full of life. Rose petal, chalk, blood orange and white pepper lend striking exotic top notes that are quite suggestive of what the future is going to bring. What a gorgeous Barolo this is.

The 2018 Brunello di Montalcino Tenuta Nuova is spicy and intense, wafting up with a wild mix of sweet herbs, cloves, dried citrus peels and crushed red plums. This is darkly elegant and refined, with polished red and black fruits elevated by hints of lavender and mint; yet beneath, a web of fine tannins slowly saturates the palate. Hints of cranberry and tangerine mingle with lavender through the long and structured finale, as the 2018 finishes beautifully balanced and classic in feel. With maturity, this may deserve an even higher score.

A firm and lightly chewy nero d'avola with earth and spice and some mushroom undertones. Medium body, solid tannins and a fresh, savory finish. Sustainable. Drink now.

Made with air-dried grapes, the Tenuta Scerscé 2018 Sforzato di Valtellina Nebbiolo Infinito opens to a medium-dark color and moderate fruit weight that feels velvety, rich and open-knit. The sforzato, or appassimento, process brings on extra heft and intensity for sure, but the Nebbiolo grape never loses its inner grace and poise. Aromas of dried rose, wild cherry, plum and sweet earth rise from the bouquet. A pretty layer of cured tobacco gives the wine a more fleshed-out feel on the close.

The 2019 Barolo Brunate is a powerhouse. Black cherry, plum, spice, lavender, mocha, gravel and scorched earth all build as this virile, potent Barolo struts its stuff. The Brunate is another super-impressive wine in this range. To be perfectly honest, the Brunate has never been one of my favorite wines here, but the 2019 is undeniably great. Perhaps the combination of parcels Vietti has today explains the multi-dimensional vibrancy that comes through. This is simply magnificent.

$25 AND UNDER STEALS

Absolutely delicious and stunning for the price. Loads of cherry/blueberry fruit, plus a streak of spiciness, and terrific structure. Mouth-filling and long.

This red is tightly wound and austere, revealing cherry, currant, eucalyptus and grassy flavors. Though locked up now, this has a core of sweet, ripe fruit begging to emerge. Fine intensity and length. Best from 2026 through 2043.