The 2017 Chianti Classico Riserva is laced with cinnamon, blood orange, wild cherry, tobacco and incense, all of which give it a decidedly exotic flair. The 2017 is a rich, dense Riserva, but I would prefer to drink it on the airy side, before it starts to lose its freshness and vibrancy.

Fattoria Selvapiana is one of Rùfina's modest superstars, defined by its very low-key profile and red wines that combine generously free-flowing fruit and faultless terroir expression. The lovely light tang in every sip stems from a mix of clay-limestone that provides fatness and juiciness, while schist or galestro engenders underlying depth. Organic.

Dusty violets, roses, incense wild herbs and wet stone lift up to form a perfumed display as the 2018 Conero Riserva Grosso Agontano blossoms in the glass. The Agontano is silky and refined, contrasting ripe red berries and sweet spice with saline-mineral tones and brisk acidity. This leaves the palate with a coating of fine tannins, yet it remains energetic, savory and almost salty in character, with a hint of black licorice that lingers long. The 2018 Agontano will only require minimal cellaring to show well, and, although quite balanced and pretty, it should be enjoyed sooner rather than later.

With fruit from Novello, the Vietti 2017 Barolo Ravera is immediately expressive and articulate. The message it communicates is one of elegance and finesse, and the mouthfeel is especially important to this bottle. A silky, almost glossy sheen sets up aromas of cassis, blueberry, wild cherry and crushed stone. These various elements literally glide or skate together in seamless harmony. This was a release of 7,560 bottles.

Bosco di Gica opens with fresh floral scents that lead into flavors of Honeycrisp apple, yellow pear and white peach wrapped in a fine, satiny mousse and just enough sweetness (10 grams per liter) to amplify those juicy fruit tones. It’s an elegant wine and a terrific value, perfect for a high end by-the-glass program.

Subtle aromas of orange peel, cherries, and dried flowers follow through to a medium body, fine tannins and a refined, subtle finish. Such beauty. So drinkable and fine.

Though ripe and lush, this is also dense, with pointed tannins giving a physical sensation and lifting the cherry, strawberry and floral flavors. Finds a nice youthful equilibrium in the end, where mouthwatering acidity roams. Best from 2023 through 2038.