The 2018 Chardonnay Lowengang captivates with its understated yet deeply layered bouquet, as sweet smoke blows off to reveal ripe peaches complemented by a mix of curry leaves and fresh vanilla bean. This is silky and elegant in texture, yet not weighty in feel, as contrasting notes of lemon oil and granny smith apple give way to an enriching air of confectionary custards. It leaves a concentration of tart orchard fruits and salty minerals to linger, while finishing remarkably long, but also fresh. There is simply so much going on in this glass and only more to come through medium-term cellaring. The integration of oak is spot-on. This is Italian Chardonnay done right.

At each tilt of the glass, the 2019 Podium reveals something new. Initially showing gingery spice, white smoke and yellow flower notes, it evolves into sour melon, young mango and wet stone aromas. Finally, it turns flinty, with crushed apples and raw almonds. The silky textures are almost glycerol-like, even though it is seemingly weightless in feel. It hovers above the senses while being propelled by vibrant acidity and saturating mineral tones, as ripe orchard fruits and inner florals cascade across the palate. It leaves you with an achingly youthful impression, the combination of structure and lingering notes of bitter grapefruit rind and granny smith apples. 2019 Podium is a classic in the making; and while it can be enjoyed today, the best is yet to come.

Casanova di Neri’s ‘white label’ is crafted from the estate’s vineyards in Montalcino’s northeast. The 2017 edition also sees grapes from Cerretalto included, which is usually bottled separately. It emerges slowly, giving scents of violets, yellow broom and mint. The palate is currently a bit angular but the core reaches deep. It hints promisingly at cherry, clay, iron and graphite. An intriguing, intricate expression with noteworthy freshness. Give this a year to flesh out.

The 2017 Ghiaie della Furba opens to a bouquet of minty herbs, camphor and smoke before deepening further to display dusty red currant and spice box. This is velvety and fleshy in feel, with stimulating acidity that enlivens its spicy black fruit and building mineral tones. It tapers off with persistence, power and grippy tannin, the perfect mix for a long evolution. The Ghiaie della Furba is a blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Syrah and 20% Merlot that refines in barrique, half new and half second pass. It's important to note that production was down by 40% in 2017 due to frost.

The 2019 vintage is made from 90% Sangiovese blended with 10% Colorino, Canaiolo and Ciliegiolo.  It was aged for 12 months in large (528-660 gal) French and Austrian oak casks, and three months in bottle.  The color is ruby.  Aromas are red cherry and strawberry layered with savory spices and vanilla.  It is light bodied and lively with tangy acidity and ripe, grainy tannins.  There is a touch of pleasant bitterness in the finish, which clears the palate.  The current generation of the Stucchi Prinetti family, Emanuela, Paolo and Roberto are running the winery which was created in 1846 and became commercial in 1957.  Roberto is the winemaker with consultant Maurizio Castelli.  Their goal is a natural expression of Sangiovese with lightness and balance, but also food friendly and readily enjoyable.

Showing dark plum, ripe fruit, charred meat and scorched earth, the Tenuta Sallier de la Tour 2018 Monreale Syrah La Monaca is a perfect match of grape and territory. Syrah loves a hot climate, and Sicily loves Syrah. This is a robust and powerful expression of the grape that has absorbed much of the Sicilian sun, yet it remains elegantly mid-weight and contained throughout. This would be great with some grilled lamb sausage.

This wine shows its MGA name "Roncaglie" on the front label for the first time. That's because Vietti recently acquired additional land in this cru site. The total holdings now span two hectares of vines. The 2018 Barbaresco Roncaglie Masseria is made as if it were a Barolo (instead of a Barbaresco) and is released one year after its peers. It shows tart fruit and dried cranberry with some mild spice and tarry smoke from two years in large oak casks. Exactly 5,026 bottles were made.

Lots of red plums and cherries on the nose with a palate that has a full body, thick silky tannins and a fresh and flavorful finish. The tannins are in good balance against the ripe fruit. Fresh and transparent at the end. Drink or hold.