Dusty violets, roses, incense wild herbs and wet stone lift up to form a perfumed display as the 2018 Conero Riserva Grosso Agontano blossoms in the glass. The Agontano is silky and refined, contrasting ripe red berries and sweet spice with saline-mineral tones and brisk acidity. This leaves the palate with a coating of fine tannins, yet it remains energetic, savory and almost salty in character, with a hint of black licorice that lingers long. The 2018 Agontano will only require minimal cellaring to show well, and, although quite balanced and pretty, it should be enjoyed sooner rather than later.

Elegant and vibrant, with expressive aromas suggesting cherry, tamarind and tar, followed by flavors of red berry, rose and mineral.  Ends with a lingering aftertaste.  Best from 2023 through 2038.

Spicy, fresh and floral, the 2020 Vermentino di Gallura Limizzani lifts up effortlessly from the glass. This perfumed effort displays sour melon, ginger and honeysuckle. It’s silky and pliant, with a noticeable inner sweetness contrasted by salty minerals and tart orchard fruits. The cheeks pucker with residual tension as this tapers off fresh to a hint of tropical citrus.

Very intense blackberries and spice with some earth and violets. Really complex. Full-bodied with layers of ripe tannins, yet they are firm and formed. Shows how well this cool area does in a hot vintage. Attractive now, but needs time to open. Try after 2023.

Very potent aromas of blackcurrants and toasted oak with hints of eucalyptus and black-cherry liqueur, following through to a full palate with firm tannins that drive the fruit on through the long finish. There’s a kind of raw, almost rough-and-ready character to this that’s a bit hard work now. Will even out with bottle age. One for the cellar. Try from 2024.