Snappy acidity creates a clean-cut frame for the creamy mix of poached apricot, chamomile, salty mineral and mandarin orange peel aromas and flavors in this well-meshed, light-on-its-feet white. Drink now through 2027. 1,100 cases made, 200 cases imported.

Showing dark plum, ripe fruit, charred meat and scorched earth, the Tenuta Sallier de la Tour 2018 Monreale Syrah La Monaca is a perfect match of grape and territory. Syrah loves a hot climate, and Sicily loves Syrah. This is a robust and powerful expression of the grape that has absorbed much of the Sicilian sun, yet it remains elegantly mid-weight and contained throughout. This would be great with some grilled lamb sausage.

The 2018 Barolo Castiglione is bright, fresh and delineated. Crushed red berry fruit, white pepper, chalk, mint and rose petal all run through this gorgeous, sculpted Barolo. The purity of the fruit and overall energy here are captivating. I would cellar the 2018 for at least a few years. It's a gorgeous wine in the making.

The 2021 Extra Brut Col Credas Rive di Farra di Soligo is more of a whisper than a shout, as nuances of sweet melon and wildflowers give way to cracked slate and gingery spice. This is savory and mineral in style, caressing the palate with silken bubbles, as citrus-tinged orchard fruits are complemented by a salty flourish that evolves toward the close. The Col Credas finishes potent and with remarkable length, leaving a lemon-rind-like concentration, even as the mouth is left watering for another sip.

Showing a sketch on the front label of a lady with a big flower on her head, the Tenuta Scerscé 2018 Valtellina Superiore Valgella Riserva is another beautifully fine and polished wine from the mountainous north of Italy. It offers high-elevation aromas of wildflower, crushed slate, ash and polished metal. The wine ends with a very elegant finish that is lean and bright.

The 2017 Ghiaie della Furba opens to a bouquet of minty herbs, camphor and smoke before deepening further to display dusty red currant and spice box. This is velvety and fleshy in feel, with stimulating acidity that enlivens its spicy black fruit and building mineral tones. It tapers off with persistence, power and grippy tannin, the perfect mix for a long evolution. The Ghiaie della Furba is a blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Syrah and 20% Merlot that refines in barrique, half new and half second pass. It's important to note that production was down by 40% in 2017 due to frost.

This is one of the most structured Barbarescos from here, showing lots of dark fruit and black olives, together with bark and black truffles. Full-bodied and layered with fantastic structure and a long finish. Needs four or five years to come around.

Expressive, complex and long, despite its compact profile today. Delivers black cherry, blackberry, violet, mineral and tobacco flavors that prevail, while assertive yet refined tannins leave their mark on the lingering finish. Best from 2025 through 2042.