The 2020 Barbaresco Masseria, from vines in Roncaglie, sizzles with tension. Bright, red-toned fruit, orange peel, mint, white pepper and crushed rocks are all beautifully delineated. In many vintages, the Masseria is quite showy. That is hardly the case in 2020, a vintage in which the wine is classically austere and in need of time. Super-classic.

With fruit from La Morra, the mid-weight 2018 Barolo Brunate shows a pretty softness and a delicate side with dried rose, lilac and blue flower. The wine completes malolactic fermentation in barrique and is later moved into large oak casks for aging. This dual oak treatment is part of Vietti's secret recipe for producing the silky tannins and fine texture you taste here. A production of 4,493 bottles, the wine is recognized by that distinctive aromatic finale of licorice and balsam herb.

A very pure and beautiful red with cherry and strawberry. Subtle spice, such as nutmeg and cedar. Orange peel, too. Medium to full body. Firm, silky tannins melt nicely into the wine. Fresh and clean finish. A little tight at the end. A beautiful single-vineyard Chianti Rufina with structure. Drinkable now, but better after 2023, when it will have softened a little.

A complex and detailed wine with toast, fresh violets, strawberries, red currants and dried cherries. Medium-bodied with velvety tannins that are fiercely dusty in the finish, crisp acidity and a lively aftertaste. Forthright wine with an almost rugged finish. Drinkable now, but best from 2025.

The 2019 Barbaresco Riserva Rabajà is a new wine from Vietti. It soars out of the glass with a captivating bouquet redolent of crushed flowers, herbs, mint and orange peel. The aromatics alone are beguiling. Nervy and classic in build, with gorgeous inner sweetness, the 2019 is utterly irresistible.

Starting with the 2019 vintage, Vietti's Barolos and Barberas are all certified organic. The 2019 Barbera d'Asti La Crena (with 10,000 bottles made) is a darkly concentrated wine with abundant black fruit and dark spice. Fruit for La Crena comes from the heart of the Nizza region that is dedicated to the Barbera grape. In this case, old vines were planted between 1932 and 1935. The results are aged in both barrique and botte, and the wine is syrupy thick and powerful (with 15% alcohol) on the close.

The 2021 Rosato Montepulciano Kómaros wafts up to show dusty rose, sweet melon and minty herbs. This impresses, with its soft textures contrasted by a reverberation of zesty acids and sour citrus tones; yet through it all, a vivid note of ripe yellow apple resides at its core. The 2021 Kómaros tapers off with tension, leaving behind mineral-tinged orchard fruits and a hint of blood orange. Garofoli knocked it out of the park with this Montepulciano Rosato.