Lots of red plums and cherries on the nose with a palate that has a full body, thick silky tannins and a fresh and flavorful finish. The tannins are in good balance against the ripe fruit. Fresh and transparent at the end. Drink or hold.

Another brilliant expression, reflecting a culture of kaleidoscopic blending to attain a greater whole: tank and oak (no new) ferments, partly induced and spontaneous, all at once. Rapier-like precision, depth and weight, without any excess or obvious winemaking artefact perceivable. Mid-weighted, yet intense, reeling off notes of smoked almond, stone fruit allusions, pickled mango and kumquat. The finish is impressively pliant and majestically long.

The 2019 Pinot Noir Krafuss, from a vineyard in the hills above San Michele Appiano, is impossible to ignore, with a whiff of smokey crushed stone and flowery underbrush giving way to depths of wild strawberry and shaved cedar. It’s a model of purity, seamlessly silky and lifted, with white pepper-tinged red berries and mineral underpinnings that add a distinctly savory profile toward the close. The 2019 finishes long and spicy, also lightly tannic, yet with sour citrus nuances that keep me looking back to the glass for more. Some cellaring will be required to allow all of the components here to sing in unison. What a gorgeous rendition of Krafuss.

The 2020 Sor Ugo is packed with blackberry, cloves, leather, menthol, licorice and chocolate. Rich and resonant in the glass, with tons of energy, Sor Ugo has plenty to offer. The substantial, expansive finish is especially of note. I would prefer to drink this over the next decade or so.

Bright, medium deep yellow; aromas of spearmint, almond and elderflowers. Medium-full with very good to excellent concentration. There is very good acidity, notable complexity and a distinct sapidity in the lengthy, flavorful finish. I love the freshness and beautiful varietal purity displayed with this wine. Enjoy over the next 5-7 years.

Savory and complex nose with a meaty, earthy undertone to the orange rind, iron, baking spices, leather and ripe plums. Juicy and firm on the palate with a medium to full body and abundant, mealy tannins. Long and caressing finish. Drink or hold.

Tenuta Scerscé coaxes from their vines something truly special. This wine, the Essenza, opens with aromas of fresh cherries, herbal tea, cola and wildflowers. The palate is plump with juicy red-fruit notes that are balanced by notes of dried herbs and fresh earth. Fine tannins and crisp acidity show that this wine will drink well for a long while. Drink now-2040.

This is one of my sweetheart wines from Castiglione Falletto. The Vietti 2018 Barolo Rocche di Castiglione is beautifully etched and sharp with an especially delineated quality that is uncommon in this vintage. Fruit comes from a small 8,000-square-meter parcel, and like the other wines in this cru series from Vietti, it ages in oak casks for two years. The wine's texture is beautifully smooth and polished thanks to the carefully integrated tannins. Only 3,693 bottles were made.