From a southern exposure plot that gets full sun all day. Deep cherry & blueberry aromas and flavors, rich warm spice tones, bright acidity, light to mid weight, long finish with a spice push. Headed for true elegance!
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From a southern exposure plot that gets full sun all day. Deep cherry & blueberry aromas and flavors, rich warm spice tones, bright acidity, light to mid weight, long finish with a spice push. Headed for true elegance!

You could argue that this is the wine with the fasting growing quality trajectory because this vineyard site is one of those rare places in the appellation that appears to improve despite (or more likely because of) a changing climate. Ravera enjoys an open panorama (at 400 to 440 meters in elevation) that extends to the snow-capped Alps and benefits from cooler air currents, coupled with an amazing quality of light that you notice with the naked eye. The 2021 Barolo Ravera saw its fruit harvested later than the other wines, on October 11th, and continued with a classic Vietti-style fermentation with 20-plus days of skin contact. Simply put, what Ravera offers is complexity (and strength) with hints of bergamot, citrus, herbs, mineral and salt over a tightly concentrated mouthfeel. The quality of the tannins and the freshness of this 2021 are impressive, and that citrusy note continues with tangerine skin and kumquat. Production is 8,700 bottles.

Mocha meets dried black cherries, plums and minty herbs as the 2020 Carmignano Riserva Trefiano slowly evolves in the glass. This is silky smooth and cool-toned in feel, with a sour citrus tinge elevating ripe wild berry fruits as hints of sage embellish the close. It finishes pleasantly bitter and incredibly long, leaving crystalline tannins to pierce the palate as echoes of licorice and minerals slowly taper off. This shows the warmth of the vintage, but does so with impeccable balance.

The 2022 Timorasso Boscogrosso is a new wine from Vietti. It emerges from a single parcel in Monleale. Aromatic and pliant, with terrific textural depth, the 2022 has a lot to offer. A brief period on the skins accents the natural richness of the variety. This is an especially refined Timorasso.

This is the top-end Garganega from the talented Inama family. It included the words "Grande Cuvée" in its name until the previous vintage made. The 2022 Soave Classico Foscarino I Palchi is a beautiful wine with a tight vein of crispness and lemony tartness that follows the wine from start to finish, giving it firmness and lasting staying power. There is ample textural fiber at the back, more than enough to make this wine feel important and multidimensional. This 17-hectare vineyard sits in basalt lava soils. The wine is partially fermented in oak (with 30% neutral and new barrique and 50% botte grande) and 20% in stainless steel.

I spent a good amount of time huddled over this fantastic bottle over the course of a few days. This is another masterpiece in a long line of masterpieces from the Villero site in Castiglione Falletto that is definitely a personal MGA favorite. The Vietti 2016 Barolo Riserva Villero can be summed up in a single word: seamless. You immediately recognize the strong personalized style of the wine despite the Vietti ownership changes, although in truth this vintage was still under the guide of Luca and Elena Penna-Currado because the estate was sold in July 2016 and they stayed on to make wines for a few more years to follow. The smoothness of the wine represents a continuum across various chapters of dark fruit, roasted chestnut, iron ore, blood orange, aniseed and white truffle. It does not have the weightlessness of some of today's top Barolo; in fact, quite the opposite: this is a wine of depth, full-bodied texture and smooth transitions. Production is exactly 5,146 bottles, 330 magnums and 15 double magnums.

This is the baby in the bunch, representing one of the newest additions to the Vietti portfolio, with the first vintage produced in 2018. The learning curve in Monvigliero is always steep, or so most winemakers tell me, because very few can go to 100% whole-cluster fermentation. Indeed, the 2021 Barolo Monvigliero sees 60% whole clusters. The Vietti team is experienced, and this wine is pristine. This vintage was harvested on September 30th, and maceration was a bit shorter, at 20 days. The wine shows a delicate film of pink salt with garden herbs, lemon leaves and spring flowers. It is a wine of extreme elegance, but I find that this vintage is especially Mediterranean in character. Production is 8,663 bottles.
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