The 2009 Alta Langa Metodo Classico Pas Dosé Riserva Zero 140 (a blend of 85% Pinot Nero and 15% Chardonnay) is not quite full-bodied but almost, showing plenty of rich layering and texture. The number 140 in the sparkler's name refers to the number of months this special bottle ages on the lees. This is a real beauty with peach, orchard fruit, baked bread, toasted pine nut and hints of dusty mine

One of the palest and most perfumed Barolos from Vietti with a transparent, ruby-orange hue. This is a super nuanced, elegant, expressive and ethereal Monvigliero that grows on me, with enchanting notes of grilled grapefruit, thyme, frozen raspberries and mineral. A subtle splash of white pepper and mezcal-like smokiness. Really refined and transparent, with some citrus and mineral tensions that are closely knit with the fine, crumbled tannins. So much finesse and detail here, and its complexity will continue to unwind. Really composed, soulful and mind-blowing! An otherworldly, idiosyncratic Barolo that actually reminded me of the finest Gredo garnacha. A big wow that deserves attention. Vegan. Best with a Burgundy glass. Can drink now or from 2027.

Best Buy.  Opening with an intense mélange of spices such as cinnamon, nutmeg, and clove, this Lambrusco quickly lifts out of the glass. Notes of ripe plums plucked straight from the tree and fresh, aromatic herbs intertwine with the decadent spices. The palate is chewy and firm, with a medley of tart, sour fruits and robust, chewy tannins that provide structure and depth.

The 2020 Ghiaie della Furba opens with a mentholated freshness, blending minty herbs, spiced orange peels and red currants. It envelops the palate in textures of pure silk, quickly gaining grip with a core of tart red berries and sour citrus as edgy tannins pinch at the cheeks. This finishes with admirable length, structure and concentration, leaving a pleasantly bitter tinge to linger as hints of cedar and a savory herbal thrust slowly fade. The 2020 needs time, and a lot of it.

The Löwengang Chardonnay is an icon of Italian Chardonnay and continues to show the dedication of the Lageder estate to producing the highest quality of wines. Aromas of spiced baked apples, Comice pears, candied lemon zest, white flowers and baking spices are present. The wine is rich and broad on the palate with a creamy texture and hints of vanilla and both sweet and savory spices. The wine finishes with the energy and pulse of the mountains, showing both the mineral edge and the important acidity that gives this wine the structure for the long haul.

Sweet berries, meat and grilled citrus on the nose. Some crushed cement, too. Medium body, bright acidity, light tannins and a juicy finish. Very minerally and citrusy. From organically grown, native Tuscan grapes. Drink now.

The 2022 Trebbiano blossoms in the glass with a sweetly floral bouquet of crushed yellow apples, peach skin, anise, sweet sage and dusty stone. This is round and supple, with depths of ripe white pit fruits perfectly contrasted by saline minerals and hints of spice. Fresh acidity maintains a lovely balance. It tapers off long and staining, classically dry and youthfully tense. The 2022 is gorgeous but will be at its best after further cellaring.

The 2021 Rosato Madamarosè is pungently spicy yet fresh, showing wild strawberries offset by mint leaf and crushed rocks. It’s silky in feel with a wonderful contrast of sour citrus and zesty acids against ripe orchard fruits. This lingers long, leaving the palate stained in concentration, as a salty flourish slowly fades. This 100% Syrah Rosato from Sicily keeps the energy high, and me, coming back to the glass for more.