Though underscored by vibrant acidity, this distinctly sweet white displays toffee, butterscotch, walnut, orange zest and multi-grain toast aromas and flavors. Concentrated, this persists on the finish, with dried fruit, fig and date notes. Shows terrific length. Trebbiano and San Colombano. Drink now through 2040.

Snappy acidity creates a clean-cut frame for the creamy mix of poached apricot, chamomile, salty mineral and mandarin orange peel aromas and flavors in this well-meshed, light-on-its-feet white. Drink now through 2027. 1,100 cases made, 200 cases imported.

The 2020 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Asinone holds the attention firmly with a mentholated mix of crushed blackberries, cedar shavings and a cocoa dusting. This smooths across the palate with soft and plaint textures and ripe wild berry fruits as a gentle coating of sweet tannins mounts toward the close. The 2020 leaves the palate stained with primary concentration, finishing long. This warm vintage Asinone will be the perfect option while waiting for the more structured vintages to mature.

Here's an important keepsake from a classic vintage. The Casanova di Neri 2016 Brunello di Montalcino Cerretalto needs time to open, especially if you plan to drink the wine earlier than is recommended (you're best off waiting five years or more). This powerful wine is packed tight with black fruit, plum and summer ripe cherry. Those dark fruit tones segue to spice, baked clay, balsam herb and gardening soil. The oak is always more apparent in the Cerretalto (which is released one year later, as if it were a Riserva) compared to the Tenuta Nuova. The vineyard used makes a big difference, giving this wine more textural weight and thicker fiber. It's all a question of taste, but if you want power (with 15% alcohol), richness, sensuality and voluptuousness in your Brunello, Cerretalto is the bottle at the end of the rainbow.

Fresh and tangy, with primary fruit notes of apricot and orange mingling with walnut, caramel and dried fig flavors. Harmonious, with a spine of vibrant acidity driving the long aftertaste. Drink now through 2038.

The southeastern Italian region of Puglia is often thought of as one of the most important territories for rosato in the country. Several grapes are used to produce the various styles; this one from Masseria Li Veli is produced entirely from Negroamaro. Medium-deep orange in color, this offers delightful perfumes of orange peel, currant and orange roses. There is very good acidity, which helps preserve acidity and freshness and the finish is round and quite delicious. Enjoy this over the next 2-3 years.

The 2020 Barbera d'Asti La Crena is soft and voluptuous from the outset. In this vintage, La Crena is especially forward and fruit-driven. The 2020 will need at least a few years for the classic La Crena aromas and flavors to emerge fully. Hints of gravel, crushed rocks and dried herbs linger, hinting at what is to come. La Crena usually blossoms with time in bottle. I won't at all be surprised if that happens here as well.

A nose of wild strawberries and sour cherries has hints of graphite and crushed rocks and then tanned leather and grilled meat. The palate is bright and bouncy with strawberry-cherry flavor, a squeeze of blood orange and a salty kick.