The blackcurrants and violets really come through here with hints of sandalwood on the nose. It’s full-bodied with very fine tannins that run the length of the wine. Polished and long. Give it at least three or four years to come around. Try after 2025.

This has aromas of olives, black fruit, cracked pepper and dried herbs. Meaty and savory, with firm, chewy tannins. Compact and medium-to full-bodied, with excellent concentration. Sustainable. Better after 2023.

I have long awaited the first rendition of the Giovanni Neri Brunello di Montalcino, and the 2018 does not disappoint. Here I’m finding a beguiling mix of lavender, white pepper and crushed stone giving way to dried black cherries and foreign spice. This washes across the palate with a supple wave of ripe red berries carried by vibrant acidity, as nuances of sour citrus and clove resonate throughout. Its tannins are crunchy, almost chiseled in feel, yet coupled with a staining of primary concentration that lingers under an air of violet inner florals, tapering off with tremendous length and structured for a long and balanced maturation. Made from vines that are 50 years old, the Giovanni Neri hails from a vineyard acquired in the southeast of Montalcino. This is a fabulous debut bottling.

A dense, racy and expressive red, offering black cherry, black currant, violet and iron aromas and flavors, with a hint of rosemary. This is driven by vivid acidity and refined tannins, which lend both finesse and length. Shows great harmony and elegance. Best from 2025 through 2047. 828 cases made, 145 cases imported.

This red is tightly wound and austere, revealing cherry, currant, eucalyptus and grassy flavors. Though locked up now, this has a core of sweet, ripe fruit begging to emerge. Fine intensity and length. Best from 2026 through 2043.

A very pure and beautiful red with cherry and strawberry. Subtle spice, such as nutmeg and cedar. Orange peel, too. Medium to full body. Firm, silky tannins melt nicely into the wine. Fresh and clean finish. A little tight at the end. A beautiful single-vineyard Chianti Rufina with structure. Drinkable now, but better after 2023, when it will have softened a little.

A certified organic wine with 7,500 bottles released, the 2019 Pinot Noir Krafuss is a fine expression of the Burgundian grape that needs a little extra time to open aromatically. With patience, the wine is generous with wild cherry, rose, sour plum and blue flower. Delicate spices also appear. It is lean in appearance with a medium ruby color, and the mouthfeel follows suit with freshness and fragility. The Krafuss Vineyard is located in the hills of San Michele Appiano and Montagna at 430 to 450 meters in elevation with rocky and clay calcareous soils.

TOP 50 WINES OF 2022  #3 

Psst, here’s a secret. Friuli has some of the most expressive Sauvignon Blanc on the planet. The northeastern Italian DOC of Collio Goriziano in Friuli-Venezia Giulia has historically been known for Pinot Grigios and Friulanos (also known as Sauvignon Vert), but it has more recently received overdue recognition for its stellar Sauvignon Blanc wines. One sip of Russiz Superiore’s Sauvignon Collio, and you’ll understand why. Its earthy, slightly savory palate offers a nice alternative to the New Zealand-style, pyrazine-forward Savvy B Americans are familiar with, offering highly concentrated notes of bright tomato and aromatic basil. With a mineral-rich texture, it’s the perfect match for a caprese salad with lots of flaky sea salt. The palate is a study in balance with excellent acidity and just the right grip.