From Serralunga, the 2020 Barolo Lazzarito displays more sapidity on opening, with aromas of fresh sage, balsamic herbs, preserved strawberries, and tea leaf. Medium-bodied, it is more structured, with broad shoulders, ripe tannins, and a more grounding sensibility without being heavy. It shows more savory richness, although is light on its feet. Drink 2026-2046.

The 2018 Oratorio di San Lorenzo Riserva is reserved yet wonderfully floral, almost dusty in character, with pepper-tinged strawberries and roses offset by a hint of sweet spice. This is silky and pure in style with a pretty inner sweetness complicated by a core of brisk acidity as perfumed inner florals and depths of dark red fruit settle upon the senses. It tapers off lightly structured with sweet tannins yet finishes long, leaving a staining of tart wild berries and savory spice to taper off slowly. While quite finessed, an underlying power here will promise a long and steady maturation. That said, while already in the bottle for two years, the 2018 is still almost a year away from being released.

Distinctly savory and spicy in the glass, the 2018 Brut Oudeis wafts up with notes of crushed stone, dusty sage, ground ginger and citrus zest. It's elegant and round on the palate, with saline minerals and brisk acidity enlivening the tart orchard fruits. This finishes with a balanced inner sweetness, and sour lemon hints add a lovely contrast. The 2018 Oudeis is a big step up from the 2017 tasted last year. It's a blend of 80% Pinot Noir and 20% Chardonnay.

Attractive juicy red with fine tannins and a firm structure. Medium-bodied, bright and racy, with notes of ripe cherries and currants and a spicy aftertaste. From organically grown grapes. Drink or hold.

Col Disôre is a blend of Pinot Bianco, Friulano, Sauvignon Blanc and Ribolla Gialla from the typical ponca flysch soil of Collio, which brings to the wine a marvelous vibrancy and minerality. When the minerality of Collio meets this kind of concentration, the match is great. Subtle toasty aromas with rose and peach skin feature marine influence and bright fern scents. The attack is soft, smooth, dense and rich, supported by elegant lifted acidity. The finish is still oaky, but your patience will be rewarded

An intriguing nose of red berries, decadent red apples, dried tobacco, roses and rich earth. Medium- to full-bodied with perfectly integrated tannins that create a lightly velvety underlay for the bright fruit and spice flavors that push through the long, long finish. Few reds from the montepulciano grape are able to offer this degree of complexity, combined with light-footed elegance and balance. Exquisite. Benchmark. Drink or hold.

The first vintage for the 2015 Barolo Riserva offers richness and depth of profile, with spiced red plum, sweet balsamic, and licorice. It is full-bodied, with potent intensity in its notes of kirsch and dark mineral earth as well as its sweet tannins.

Best Buy. Concentrated aromas of black plum, fig, blackberry, white pepper, allspice and tea leaf roll out of the glass. Gamy on the palate with a lush and generous offering of black cherry jam that is balanced by floral and savory elements bringing the wine to its earthy finish.