The 2020 Asciutto Rive di Colbertaldo Vigneto Giardino is remarkably airy and fresh yet deep; stone dust gives way to dried flowers, ground ginger and citrus-tinged pear. This is a luxuriously soft and round expression, with silken bubbles and a beautiful balance of saline acidity contrasting its pleasant inner sweetness. Ripe pear mixes with green melon and candied citrus throughout the long and incredibly refreshing finale, as a twang of granny smith lingers. Adami is a master of the Asciutto style, which the winery estimates leaves between 17-32 grams per liter of residual sugar; and yet, you’d be hard-pressed to notice it at all.

This is one of my all-time favorite Brunellos, and although personal tastes are fluid and may change from time to time, there is something timeless and solid about this wine. It's like a touchstone. The Casanova di Neri 2017 Brunello di Montalcino Tenuta Nuova is graced with a similar interlude of elegant rose or crushed flower that we saw in the annata wine. It appears more prominently here, and with more shape and focused intensity. Make no mistake, Giacomo Neri builds wines for pleasure and sensual impact, and this wine (helped by a hot growing season and 15% alcohol) ticks all those boxes. But it also shows floral elegance and sour cherry freshness that defies our expectations of the vintage.

Showing dark plum, ripe fruit, charred meat and scorched earth, the Tenuta Sallier de la Tour 2018 Monreale Syrah La Monaca is a perfect match of grape and territory. Syrah loves a hot climate, and Sicily loves Syrah. This is a robust and powerful expression of the grape that has absorbed much of the Sicilian sun, yet it remains elegantly mid-weight and contained throughout. This would be great with some grilled lamb sausage.

Though firm, there is an elegance to this red, whose flavor profile ranges from strawberry and cherry to tobacco and tea. Taut and linear, with fine balance and a long, red fruit, stone and savory aftertaste. Best from 2025 through 2042

Wow. Incredible purity and transparency with cherries, bark, mushroom, flower and slate/stone on the nose. Full-bodied yet agile and fresh with a fine tannin structure that runs the length of the wine and goes on forever. The polish, elegance and grace is breathtaking. Power with agility. A revelation for the 2016 vintage in Brunello. Drink in 2024 and onwards but wonderful to taste now.

There’s something intriguing, alluringly dark, earthy – animal, even – yet floral and packed full of rich black fruits and exotic spices that defines the 2016 Brunello di Montalcino Cerretalto. This impresses with its cool-toned dark berries and minerals, complemented by bright acidity and sweet inner herbal tones. It’s not yet ready to reveal all of its charms, though it drops subtle hints each step of the way. A bitter twang keeps the expression lively and fresh, while grippy tannins saturate deeply and leave the palate aching with youthful tension, as notes of licorice, clove and a hint of ginger linger. What a wine!

The super-flinty nose with a note of grilled lemon pulls you into this light and creamy dry pinot blanc that plows its own furrow. Quite an austere balance, due to the pronounced tannins, then wild-herb character at the very dry finish. Only 11.5% alcohol! From biodynamically grown grapes with Demeter certification. Drink or hold.

The 2021 Rosato Etna Tefra is remarkably pretty, with sweet smoke and melon complemented by hints of crushed almond and candied citrus. While silky in feel, a burst of brilliant acidity and salty mineral tones add a reverberation of tension, as orchard fruits and inner florals settle in toward the close. There’s a richness that lasts through the finale, seldom found in a Rosato, as the Tefra tapers off with a saline flourish that keeps the mouth watering for more. This is the magic of Nerello Mascalese Rosato.