A vibrant white, with pleasing buoyancy to the fine frame of acidity as it boosts flavors of Canary melon, white peach, almond blossoms and grated ginger. Sleek and well-meshed on the lingering, saline-laced finish. Drink now through 2029.

Dark and brooding, the 2021 Le Stanze del Poliziano grumbles up with an array of grilled herbs and exotic spices before giving way to dusty black currant notes. This is silken in texture yet racy and spry, with polished red fruit tones that slowly saturate as hints of licorice and a tinge of sour citrus add lovely contrast. The 2021 tapers off with tremendous length and structure, leaving sweet tannins and a bitter blackberry concentration that pinches at the cheeks with youthful tension. Le Stanze del Poliziano comes across as very classic in feel.

Built to age, with concentrated flavors and lots of lip-smacking tannins, with medium weight and good acidity. It should be decanted if opened over the next few years or, if you like to see how a wine develops short term, take some time enjoying a glass or two to taste it as it develops in real time.

Dark red fruit aromas of black cherry and plum take center stage, intermingling with an array of sweet and savory spices that perk up the senses. This wine is polished, a clear indicator of its serious craftsmanship and quality. Its firm structure promises longevity, offering an experience that demands reflection. Drink from 2026

The 2020 Brut Alta Langa Oudeis opens in the glass with an herbal tinge that gives way to notes of crushed stone and yellow apples. It possesses an inner sweetness and creamy bead of bubbles contrasted by crisp mineral tones and tart orchard fruits. This displays a lovely balance, finishing fresh with hints of almond custard and zests of lime that fade slowly.

Choices, choices, choices... The Vietti 2021 Barolo Cerequio is another classic from this over-performing estate. This parcel was purchased in 2018 from the Chiarlo family (the Krause family acquired Vietti in 2016), and although the location is La Morra, the site behaves more like Sarmassa in Barolo, creating wines with a firm, tight entry and good structure. You could say that it has a nervous character now in its adolescence, and of course we expect it to smooth out and find harmony with time. Fruit was harvested on September 30th, and the wine sees 27 days of extended skin maceration. Compared to Brunate, which is always darker in character, the Cerequio is lighter and brighter with pretty primary fruit. Production is 4,890 bottles.

This is a very pleasant and affordable wine that could be termed “Barolo light.” The importer had a hand in its production, sourcing grapes from the various villages in this northwestern Italian region and putting together what was once termed a “shippers’ wine,” not meant to be a blockbuster but rather a good introductory bottle. This has smooth black raspberry and blackberry flavors that allow for easy drinking without the assertive tannins that Nebbiolo wines from this appellation normally exhibit — and which add to their reputation but also their need for aging.

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