The 2021 Chardonnay Gaun is vividly fruit-focused, with an alluring mix of ripe peaches, tropical melon and candied lemon forming its bouquet. This soothes with its texturally ripe orchard fruits and exotic inner florals, all perfectly balanced by a core of brisk acidity. This finishes potent and long yet fresh, leaving tangerine nuances that linger on and on. What a treat. The 2021 Chardonnay Gaun is a real charmer.

The first vintage for the 2015 Barolo Riserva offers richness and depth of profile, with spiced red plum, sweet balsamic, and licorice. It is full-bodied, with potent intensity in its notes of kirsch and dark mineral earth as well as its sweet tannins.

The 2021 Rosato Madamarosè is pungently spicy yet fresh, showing wild strawberries offset by mint leaf and crushed rocks. It’s silky in feel with a wonderful contrast of sour citrus and zesty acids against ripe orchard fruits. This lingers long, leaving the palate stained in concentration, as a salty flourish slowly fades. This 100% Syrah Rosato from Sicily keeps the energy high, and me, coming back to the glass for more.

The 2020 Sor Ugo is packed with blackberry, cloves, leather, menthol, licorice and chocolate. Rich and resonant in the glass, with tons of energy, Sor Ugo has plenty to offer. The substantial, expansive finish is especially of note. I would prefer to drink this over the next decade or so.

There’s something intriguing, alluringly dark, earthy – animal, even – yet floral and packed full of rich black fruits and exotic spices that defines the 2016 Brunello di Montalcino Cerretalto. This impresses with its cool-toned dark berries and minerals, complemented by bright acidity and sweet inner herbal tones. It’s not yet ready to reveal all of its charms, though it drops subtle hints each step of the way. A bitter twang keeps the expression lively and fresh, while grippy tannins saturate deeply and leave the palate aching with youthful tension, as notes of licorice, clove and a hint of ginger linger. What a wine!

Perfumed yet understated, the 2019 Etna Rosso Contrada Pianodario opens with a pretty mix of dried strawberries, roses and dusty stone. It's texturally deep, with a silken wave of tart wild berry fruits and citrus tones guided by brisk acidity. This finishes lightly structured with a cheek-puckering sour tinge and a bit coy, leaving only hints of mineral-tinged dried cherries to fade gradually.

Black walnut husk, game and truffle chocolate to the plums and dark cherries. Medium- to full-bodied palate with firm and fine-grained tannins that glide through to a juicy, bright finish. Lovely austerity here will help it hold. From organically grown grapes. Drink or keep.

Broad and saturated with cherry, black currant and plum flavors, this red is expansive and yet well defined. The ripe fruit is offset by nervous tannins, leaving a resonant, energetic feel on the lengthy finish. Eucalyptus, iron and tobacco notes add detail. Best from 2025 through 2047. 642 cases made, 193 cases imported.