A salmon-colored rosé that has aromas of sliced apples, strawberries, peaches and brioche. It’s creamy and lively with rounded bubbles and a delicious, balanced finish. Drink now.

Two years on from the departure of former owners Luca Currado and Elena Penna, Vietti’s wines continue to honour their legacy. The only patent change is the removal of ‘Castiglione’ from the label of the estate’s classic Barolo. The construct remains the same, however: a multi-MGA, vintage-specific blend demonstrating the purity and precision found across the range. Gorgeously perfumed with rose, violet, black raspberry, liquorice and forest undergrowth among its many nuances, it boasts just the right amount of tightness, well measured density and a sophisticated chalky grip.

The 2022 Soave Classico I Palchi wafts up with a smoky, expressive blend of rosemary, gingery spice and musky citrus complicating crushed apples. It is silken and opulent in feel, enveloping the palate with ripe pit fruits, coming across as weighty and rich yet wonderfully balanced. Nuances of grapefruit mix with inner sage and hints of candied lime as the 2022 tapers off with excellent length yet remains wonderfully fresh.

Opening like a veritable spice box, the 2020 Carmignano Villa di Capezzana entices with its autumnal blend of allspice, clove, and star anise before giving way to steeped plums and sage. It’s silky and refined, with supple textures and ripe red and blue fruits that swirl across a stream of vibrant acidity. It leaves a pleasantly chewy sensation while finishing with fine-grained tannins and a staining of primary concentration. Wait a full minute and hints of white pepper still linger. Wow. While richer than usual and easier to appreciate out of the gate, the 2020 is balanced for a long and steady evolution.

The 2016 Barolo Riserva Villero is a dense, packed wine. Black cherry, plum, licorice, leather and incense add to an impression of brooding, virile intensity. Readers will have to be patient, as the 2016 clearly needs time. Even so, my belief remains what it has always been—that Villero is not the best vineyard in the Vietti range. That is even more apparent today, given the new sites that have been added to the range. The logic of making the estate's Riserva, theoretically the estate's top wine, from this site has always escaped me. That is more true today than ever, given the elite sites Vietti has added to their range in recent years.

This plot was purchased in 2019, and this is therefore the second vintage made. The Vietti 2020 Barbaresco Riserva Rabajà is spicy, juicy and accessible with some sweetness on the tannins. The wine sports Mediterranean warmth from within with black cherry, spice and grilled rosemary. There is a saline-mineral touch as well that adds elegance, but all said in done, this wine is more immediate in delivery. The 2020 vintage is bookended by two superior vintages, the 2019 and 2021. Only 2,152 bottles were made.