Loaded with elegance, this radiant white offers delicate scents of white stone fruit, white spring wildflowers, camphor and crushed fennel seed. Medium-bodied and boasting a polished, almost creamy texture, the delicious palate delivers ripe yellow apple, white peach, tangerine drop candy and saline before closing on bitter almond. Fresh acidity and mineral notes keep it energized.

What a beauty. The Tenuta di Capezzana 2012 Vin Santo di Carmignano Riserva (packaged in a 375-milliliter bottle) inches forth from the tiny bottle slowly and ultimately reveals a spectacular color that is orange, copper and almost green at the same time. I tasted bottle number 962 of a precious 4,968 produced. This Vin Santo puts on a real show thanks to its rich viscosity that slides, shifts and glistens in the glass. There are many aromas to describe, and it is hard to do this wine justice given how quickly they shift and change. There is honey, brown sugar, dried herb, forest mushroom, caramel and tilled earth. I even got a hint of rubber boot. This is a work of art and a clear passion project. Assigning a numerical score to an aspirational wine like this somehow misses the point, but here goes nothing.

Spicy, fresh and floral, the 2020 Vermentino di Gallura Limizzani lifts up effortlessly from the glass. This perfumed effort displays sour melon, ginger and honeysuckle. It’s silky and pliant, with a noticeable inner sweetness contrasted by salty minerals and tart orchard fruits. The cheeks pucker with residual tension as this tapers off fresh to a hint of tropical citrus.

There’s incredible mineral presence here, from the nose right through to the finish. A aromatic mix of flint, tufo and wet-stone aromas, as well as heather and floral notes. Then, the palate finally introduces ripe peach and pineapple to this mineral carnival. Full-bodied, super-silky and almost syrupy texture with dense, ripe fruit and light phenolics. The long finish mixes stone-fruit and enough acidity to handle the same, huge bundle of rich, silky minerals. This is a special old-vine selection from the historic, volcanic Monte Foscarino vineyards. Quite unique in the Soave context, and showcasing one of the appellation’s top vineyard sites. Fermentation in a mix of barrel and oak cask. First vintage. Drink or hold.

A lovely red for a porcini recipe, the 2017 Etna Rosso Contrada Pianodario reveals a delicate and silky fiber with a fine embroidery of red fruit, cassis, smoke, tar and pressed flowers. The Tasca take on Etna underlines purity and elegance, and there are few extra bells, whistles or other distractions. The wine brings you to the essence of the volcano with some hot-vintage ripeness and roundness. Pianodario is located in Randazzo on the northern side of Etna.

The 2019 Vermentino di Gallura Superiore Sciala is very pretty and perfumed, with yellow flowers giving way to ripe apples and sweet spice. This is silky in feel yet full of nervous energy, as a mix of saline minerals and acids creates inner tension. A mix of ginger and lime lingers long, making for a clean and precise finale.