Mocha meets dried black cherries, plums and minty herbs as the 2020 Carmignano Riserva Trefiano slowly evolves in the glass. This is silky smooth and cool-toned in feel, with a sour citrus tinge elevating ripe wild berry fruits as hints of sage embellish the close. It finishes pleasantly bitter and incredibly long, leaving crystalline tannins to pierce the palate as echoes of licorice and minerals slowly taper off. This shows the warmth of the vintage, but does so with impeccable balance.

A basket of cherries overflows with both ripe and candied aromas lifting from the glass that meld with the sweet spice of a nearby bakery. Each sip is guided by the wine's effortless balance as crushed wild berry flavors steep with aged tea, wild herbs and rosewood all lifted on the finish by notes of crushed chalk and vibrant acidity. Drink from 2025.

Lovely perfumes of flowers and rose stems to subtle red fruits and oranges follow through to a medium to full body. Tight, focused fruit and tannins lead to a crisp finish. Drink now.

The 2016 Barolo Riserva Villero is a dense, packed wine. Black cherry, plum, licorice, leather and incense add to an impression of brooding, virile intensity. Readers will have to be patient, as the 2016 clearly needs time. Even so, my belief remains what it has always been—that Villero is not the best vineyard in the Vietti range. That is even more apparent today, given the new sites that have been added to the range. The logic of making the estate's Riserva, theoretically the estate's top wine, from this site has always escaped me. That is more true today than ever, given the elite sites Vietti has added to their range in recent years.

A dense, solidly built version, whose core of cherry and raspberry fruit is accented by iron, wild herb and juniper notes. Focused by vibrant acidity and underlined with chalky tannins, this red is long and detailed on the finish. Best from 2027 through 2045.

The 2016 Barolo Riserva Villero is an elegant, polished Barolo. It offers up a beguiling mix of orange peel, cinnamon, dried flowers, cedar, leather and sweet pipe tobacco, all framed by a discreet touch of oak. Time in bottle has softened the tannins a touch. This is beautifully done.

Starts with an open feel, displaying cherry, peach, iron, tar and tobacco flavors before firming up. This lively red builds to the long aftertaste of red licorice, tobacco and earth. Best from 2027 through 2045.

First released in 1980 and made only the best years, the Sangioveto from Badia a Coltibuono is a Tuscan icon. The delicious 2020 is fantastic, delivering enticing aromas of red fruit, blue flower and spice. Fermented with wild yeasts and aged in barriques, only 10% new, the full-bodied, structured palate features succulent black plum, Marasca cherry, licorice and cake spice wrapped up in velvety tannins. Made entirely with Sangiovese, it’s smooth, fresh and enveloping, with weightless concentration and finesse. Drink through 2032.