Masses of purple-tinged peppery florals, crushed plums and smoky minerals lift up from the 2017 Cabernet Franc. It’s lean and focused in the mouth, coming across as salty and savory with tart wild berries that saturate all that they touch. That said, the 2017 maintains wonderful energy, even through its structured and almost-chewy finish. While this shows a bit of the warm vintage with its intense fruit and gruff tannin, it should still flesh out nicely and drink beautifully over the medium term.

This is sleek and well-defined, offering black cherry, blackberry, tar, iron and tobacco flavors shaped by vivid acidity. The tannins are dense, yet overall this is balanced, lingering on the complex, spicy finish. Sangiovese, Colorino, Canaiolo and Merlot. Best from 2021 through 2036. 10,000 cases made, 2,500 cases imported.

There’s an alluring richness and smoky minerality to the 2019 Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore Col Credas Rive di Farra di Soligo that’s impossible to ignore. Yellow flowers, young peach and crushed stone create a remarkably pretty display. It’s silky and smooth; yet it has a weightless feel, as this takes on an almost-salty savoriness which is further amplified by brisk acids and hints of spice. Col Credas is packed full of character, yet it’s wonderfully clean, poised and refreshing. This was bottled in September of 2020.

The 2017 Barolo Brunate is a powerful, brooding wine. Huge dark fruit, leather, spice, menthol and dried herbs all build in a potent Barolo that is enshrouded by tannins. The 2017 is going to need quite a bit of time in the cellar. Today, it is very much a brooding powerhouse. Dark wild cherry, licorice, tar, menthol and spice take shape in the glass, but the 2017 is clearly an infant, and an unruly one at that.

This is one of my sweetheart wines from Montalcino. The Casanova di Neri 2016 Brunello di Montalcino Tenuta Nuova offers a long list of aromas on an ever-shifting and fluid bouquet. You get bright cherry, rose potpourri, black truffle, caramel, butterscotch, sandalwood, road pavement and chalky mineral. In fact, each time I come back to this wine, that mineral element seemed to grow in intensity and scope. The wine offers a grounded fruit side that is contrasted nicely against a grounded oak component. The mouthfeel is creamy and long, and the wine shows terrific tannic integration. When you come back hours later, you might find black olive, bresaola and licorice.

Aromas of ripe black-skinned fruit, menthol and French oak form the alluring nose. On the firm, full-bodied palate, tightly knit, close-grained tannins accompany ripe Marasca cherry, orange zest, roasted coffee bean and star anise. It's densely structured but also has a weightless vibrancy. Drink 2023–2029.

Notes of grilled game and tobacco balance this wine’s rich flavors of baked cherry, molten chocolate and licorice. Dark spices offset those flavors, and lively acidity cools the finish.

The NV Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore Bosco di Gica punches well above its price point, boasting an intensely smoky and mineral expression on the nose that pulls you close to the glass. Beneath, I’m finding notes of pear and sweet herbal tones. It’s soothing and creamy yet balanced by brisk acids, as ripe orchard fruits satiate the senses, leaving a salty twang that resonates through the finale. Wow. This is a pleasure to taste. This was bottled in September of 2020.