I have long awaited the first rendition of the Giovanni Neri Brunello di Montalcino, and the 2018 does not disappoint. Here I’m finding a beguiling mix of lavender, white pepper and crushed stone giving way to dried black cherries and foreign spice. This washes across the palate with a supple wave of ripe red berries carried by vibrant acidity, as nuances of sour citrus and clove resonate throughout. Its tannins are crunchy, almost chiseled in feel, yet coupled with a staining of primary concentration that lingers under an air of violet inner florals, tapering off with tremendous length and structured for a long and balanced maturation. Made from vines that are 50 years old, the Giovanni Neri hails from a vineyard acquired in the southeast of Montalcino. This is a fabulous debut bottling.

There’s something intriguing, alluringly dark, earthy – animal, even – yet floral and packed full of rich black fruits and exotic spices that defines the 2016 Brunello di Montalcino Cerretalto. This impresses with its cool-toned dark berries and minerals, complemented by bright acidity and sweet inner herbal tones. It’s not yet ready to reveal all of its charms, though it drops subtle hints each step of the way. A bitter twang keeps the expression lively and fresh, while grippy tannins saturate deeply and leave the palate aching with youthful tension, as notes of licorice, clove and a hint of ginger linger. What a wine!

The 2018 Barolos are absolutely beautiful.

Readers will note the addition of two new wines that have been thrilling since the first day I tasted them. The first is from a choice parcel in Cerequio Vietti acquired from Michele Chiarlo.T

he 2018 Barolo Cerequio is a new wine in this range. Soaring aromatics and bright, red-toned fruit give the Cerequio its effusive personality. Nuanced and deep, with tremendous complexity and tons of character, the Cerequio is dazzling. This is everything a great Barolo from Cerequio should be. In other words: textbook. More over, it's one of the best wines of this very uneven vintage.

The oak-fermented and aged 2019 Chardonnay Löwengang shows citrusy freshness on one hand, with textured spice and vanilla on the other. This wine puts its primary fruit forward with intensity, but it also offers plenty of exciting complexity in a second wave of aromas that underline extreme care and precision in winemaking. Like the other bottles in this portfolio, this is an organic and biodynamic wine. Production is 40,000 bottles, and fruit is selected from the best parts of Löwengang in Magrè with sandy glacier soils at 230 to 330 meters in elevation.

The 2020 Barbera d'Alba Scarrone Vigna Vecchia captures all the magic of the old vines in this Castiglione Falletto cru. Black cherry, plum, licorice, incense, melted road tar and spice all meld together in a Barbera of uncommon complexity, power and elegance. Here, too, the purity of the flavors is nothing short of compelling.

Medium intense strawberry pink; aromas of marascino cherry, watermelon and pink roses. Medium full with very good concentration. There is very good complexity, with a finish that displays notes of red cherry and carnation. This would be ideal with a lighter prosciutto, such as Prosciutto di San Daniele. Enjoy over the next 2-4 years.

This has aromas of waxed lemons, jasmine, white tea and apricot stones. Light to medium body with bright acidity and a waxy, lemony palate. Crisp and very fresh. Drink now.

The 2018 Barolo Brunate is a deep, layered wine that is going to need at least a few years to come together. Today, the Brunate is quite primary and backward, but all the ingredients are there. Sage, menthol, licorice, dried flowers and spice build with a bit of coaxing.